Thread: Pulldown and inspect of my ex army 4bd1-t

As far as I can see just the water leak and the broken studs.

I looked in the bores and there is no scratchs or score marks anywhere.

you can still see the hone marks in about 70% of the bore on all bores.

the underside of the pistons still look like brand new, there is no carbon build up at all. Top of the pistons look good to.

Head intake ports look like brand new casting with no oil soot or anything.

I haven't pulled the cam out or any of the main or rod caps so I don't know what the bearings or the cam and crank surfaces look like. That's next on the list

A friend of mine came past and said to me to put new gaskets on it and put in back together as it looks like it hasn't done any work.

So far to date it has cost me $4000

expensive exercise!

So does anyone have any pics of what a good used cylinder bore should look like?

I would love to compare!

cheers Goran

So what was actually wrong with the injectors and pump to warrant a rebuild? Or did the diesel mob just need some money😊.


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Originally Posted by Geeman

As far as I can see just the water leak and the broken studs.

I looked in the bores and there is no scratchs or score marks anywhere.

you can still see the hone marks in about 70% of the bore on all bores.

the underside of the pistons still look like brand new, there is no carbon build up at all. Top of the pistons look good to.

Head intake ports look like brand new casting with no oil soot or anything.

I haven't pulled the cam out or any of the main or rod caps so I don't know what the bearings or the cam and crank surfaces look like. That's next on the list

A friend of mine came past and said to me to put new gaskets on it and put in back together as it looks like it hasn't done any work.

So far to date it has cost me $4000

expensive exercise!

Al those photos certainly look good gman. You might have been lucky and have an engine from a rollover or the likes. Make sure you have no bent rods. Hydraulicing is the main suspect with an engine that has been removed from a army vehicle. Nothing much else goes wrong with them. The bores are chrome so usually show no wear even after 500 odd ks. If everything else looks good I would just reassemble it and go for it.

I'm with your friend and Brian, and definitely wouldn't be stripping it completely.

Mainly for your own confidence and since you've already got the sump off - pull a big end bearing cap and check the top and bottom shells, do the same with a main bearing.
If they look both good, then just check the piston heights to make sure you haven't got any bent rods (as Brian suggested).
Sort out your oil cooler leak and put it back together.

Others might disagree, but if it was me I'd be ditching the multi layer rubber sump gasket arrangement and replacing it with either the single composite gasket or just use sealant. Those rubber gaskets were stupidly expensive last time I heard the price.

Steve

if those pistons are the ones your faulty injectors fed fuel to I'd be wanting my money back for needless work ditto the injector pump.

stop messing with it, check the piston heights at TDC and BDC and if they're within about 10thou of each other feed it some new gaskets and stop worrying about it.

if you want to see a photo of what good second hand bores and piston crowns look like have a look at the photos on this post

Originally Posted by Vern

So what was actually wrong with the injectors and pump to warrant a rebuild? Or did the diesel mob just need some money.


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Hey don't know much about diesel stuff , but here is the receipt for the work!
IMG_5694.jpg

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

if those pistons are the ones your faulty injectors fed fuel to I'd be wanting my money back for needless work ditto the injector pump.

stop messing with it, check the piston heights at TDC and BDC and if they're within about 10thou of each other feed it some new gaskets and stop worrying about it.

if you want to see a photo of what good second hand bores and piston crowns look like have a look at the photos on this post

I can check the piston TDC with a dial indicator, but how do I check BDC?

I don't think I can stick the dial indicator down that far!

Is there another measuring device that I can use?

cheers Goran