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....😕 i would have hooked an oil pressure gauge up to it and some fuel and started it on the floor.... these engines unless actually damaged are unstoppable. If it starts readily and smoothly (after a bleed out) from cold then you can pretty much guarantee that its a good'un...
At 750k mine had some broken rings and a cracked piston but that might have something to do with thinking that a 1998 build engine would have ALFIN pustins and turbocharging it from 420k old...😮
Jc
Mindreader.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
I just checked the piston height tdc with a dual indicator and they are all over the place! There are within 6 thou " , Also check the Bdc with a vernier and I got reading between 4 thou " !
Is this normal?
ID guess that either your disturbing the arm for the DTI going from pot to pot or you havent cleaned up the crowns before you did your measuring.
6 thou out would be concerning on a new engine but with the combined probabilities of error in measuring, the combined float of the big ends and the mains plus crown erosion or carbon build up I wouldn't be worried about bent rods or a twisted crank at this point.
that fits the bill for what I would call "while I'm here work"Quote:
Originally Posted by Geeman
the odds are that you didn't "need" any of the work done however, while you have some things in pieces to do some work on them the difference between just checking and replacing some of the parts isnt huge. so while just checking out your pump and injectors might have been say $300 in parts and labour and calibrating the pump might have been $500 including adjusting the crack pressure on the injectors.
Replacing the nozzles on an injector means you have to reset its crack pressures so lets say that doing that adds another $100 in labour plus the parts to do that, If your nozzle spray pattern wasn't great then Id replace the nozzle and reset the crack pressure. That would have been figured out when the initial bench testing was done. Doing it is the sign of a good diesel fitter.
However what its not is the sign of a good shop. A good shop would have done the testing ,raised the reports and then asked you what you wanted to do unless you specified that you wanted the injectors and pump reset or returned to spec when you put the gear in for servicing.
if thats what you did then they've done as asked and while I think the bills a little higher than it needs to be for the type of pump and injectors I've seen and heard of much higher charges for the same work.
Ahh it's all good, now that I know the pump and injectors are all fine all I have to worry abound is the rest of the motor!
Pulled the bearing caps of the cranks
they look ok, but there is signs of wear! You can see that there is more load on the rear of the crank and front compared to the middle!
Pics of the crank surface.
there is some tiny score marks that you can feel with your finger nails on some of them.
Pics of the Thrust Waser
They have stuff all wear! You can still see the STD stamped on them!
That's enough for today, ran out of table space. Have to buy one of those tear down tables on ebay!
looking at that set of photos it looks like you're pulling apart an engine thats only just bedded in and now you're going to have to go through and bed it all in again before getting a good life out of it.
the question I would be asking is...
why do you have bearing shells with holes in them that should goto oil drillings that dont appear to have oil drillings behind them.
I'm not seeing any signs of abnormal wear in any of the shells, its normal for the front and rear main bearings to be more worn than the others due to the harmonics in the crank reacting on the weight of the flywheel and clutch on the rear and the dampening of the harmonic balancer on the nose.
I've never seen much wear on the thrust bearings on these engines, I like to think thats because the oil pump provides more than sufficient flow and pressure for the flow rate escaping the mains for the oil to do all of the thrust work without metal to metal contact on the thrusts.
(and the fact that most of the time once its in a gear it stays there for long periods without needing a million gear changes)
