I would have just given it a nice coat of engine black paint and put it in!
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I would have just given it a nice coat of engine black paint and put it in!
Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app
I know what your saying it looks just run in, but there must be a reason for the army to pull-out the motor! Don't know if it was the water leak, injector pump, injectors or something in the bottom end.
I will pull it right down inspect everything and make sure its with in spec and then I will put it back together with a new set of genuine seals and gaskets.
Not sure If I will replace the rings and bearings! So far they look ok, but I will price up a set of new genuine parts and see!!!
I'm gonna have to change the colour! I'm thinking Chevy orange or land rover green!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
Given some of the things I've seen the engine pulled and replaced for the noise made by the leaking exhaust from the snapped exhaust studs and the leak from the oil cooler cover plate would be more than sufficient for some places to pull the engine and send it back for "rebuild". Iwas always convinced that some of our non uniform deeper level maintenance facilities were doing R+R on stuff that was FF to a, justify their existence and b, create income for themselves by doing rattlecan rebuilds and charging for the full 9 yards.Quote:
Originally Posted by Geeman
the saddest one I've seen is one that was pulled to have the injector pump replaced when the fault was a clogged fuel strainer.
Have Dave, What do you make of the bearing? You have got me concerned now!
Your right the holes should be there so the oil can go through the oil galleries and lubricate the crank shaft and bearings! But wait there are no oil galleries in the caps!!!
hmmmm!
Now I cant remember is bearing shells have oil galleries holes on both side.
of more interest is the number 3 bearing shell.. can you see the oil pathway?
cheaper bearings have lube holes drilled in all half shells so you dont have to worry about how they get installed. If that was the case why is there no hole in the #3 bearing cap?.
what happened to the oil pathway through the center of the bearing shell?
and the lube path is through the bearing shell from the main journal through the center of the crank to the big ends, how do the big ends look?
For those playing along at home.
theres 2 types of bearings that sit on the crank in the case of the 4bd1 there are 5 main journals that support the crank shaft on its axis of rotation. These are the ones that have been removed and exposed the really shiny metal of the crank shaft.
further into the depths of the engine are the big ends (specifically you can see the big end caps and retaining bolts) these are the bottom of the connecting rods that link the pistons to the crank and allow the conversion of up and down to round and round. There are 4 of these. and when unbolted will expose more shiny crank metal and allow the piston to be withdrawn out of the engine.
Hey Dave,
I need to organise another table in my workshop, Once I do that I will pulled the big end off and have a look at them. Will report soon as I get them out!
cheers Goran
zip lock bags with marker labels and stackable parts boxes
Big end bearings were dirt cheap when I got some about 5 years ago. Around $50 for the lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Geeman
Just a note that they don't come in a full engine set like most engines - they're sold by the pot. Enough for the whole engine is qty 4.
Steve
Well I got my new trolley and I removed the pistons and rods.
I am a bit concerned about the surface of the rods were the bearing sit in, they look quite ****ty. I'm thinking of getting them checked out!
pics of the rod bearings