Thread: Torque Impulse

Originally Posted by Vern

my landy flywheel is sitting in a truck housing in the back of my stage 1, looks like it fits to me, unless its different when bolted up

the flywheel outer diameter is the same, also the ring gear is interchangeable but the friction plate surface area is larger in the truck version as is also the offset. The cutout section in the centre of the flywheel is smaller in the truck version than the landrover one which equates to a larger friction plate area. Plus also I dont think the truck one has the oil drain holes in the scroll on the inside of the cutout.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Murray - can you measure the dimensions and weight of your truck flywheel (assuming you still have it???). I can do the same with my landie version.

The truck flywheel weighs 14.7 kg.

370mm Diameter (machined face)

390mm Diameter overall including ring gear.


Murray

Is it fair to say that if you were to add additional wieght to the flywheel that this would help reduce the destructive nature of the isuzu on gearboxes, pressure plates and body panels?
Kindest regards
Garry

Originally Posted by garryseries3

Is it fair to say that if you were to add additional wieght to the flywheel that this would help reduce the destructive nature of the isuzu on gearboxes, pressure plates and body panels?
Kindest regards
Garry

Not sure about the panels, that's more vertical shaking which a balance job will help (did wonders to mine). But it will reduce torsional vibration going through the gearbox which will help.

Originally Posted by Dougal

Not sure about the panels, that's more vertical shaking which a balance job will help (did wonders to mine). But it will reduce torsional vibration going through the gearbox which will help.

So Dougal you balanced/blue printed your isuzu and that removed a substainal amount of the shake and rattle so to speak. Was there an improvement in the noise levels of the motor as well.
Cheers
Garry

Originally Posted by garryseries3

So Dougal you balanced/blue printed your isuzu and that removed a substainal amount of the shake and rattle so to speak. Was there an improvement in the noise levels of the motor as well.
Cheers
Garry

The crank, pistons, rods and flywheel were packed up and sent off during a rebuild before I inherited the vehicle. The balancer said he took 18g off the heaviest end on the heaviest con-rod.
Made a huge difference in idle shake as well as smoothness and noise up the rev range.
Idle noise didn't change much, but vibration did.

I tend to avoid the "blueprint" term as it means different things to different people.

Originally Posted by Dougal

The crank, pistons, rods and flywheel were packed up and sent off during a rebuild before I inherited the vehicle. The balancer said he took 18g off the heaviest end on the heaviest con-rod.
Made a huge difference in idle shake as well as smoothness and noise up the rev range.
Idle noise didn't change much, but vibration did.

I tend to avoid the "blueprint" term as it means different things to different people.

Yes the the blue print term is interpted differently with crew. thamks for that info on balancing. As for the other point regarding a heavier flywheel what is you opinion of doing this, of cause it all depends on how much you add but it should soften the idling effect on the drive train I would have thought. Considering how much low down torque these motors have that additional weight on the flywheel should not effect performance that much. I know you seem to know heaps about these motors so it worth me asking would it be possible to obtain a heavier flywheel of a different model motor and fit it. Even if it was to be machined down to take the flywheel and/or ring gear. I considered it proberly simpler to just add weights to the flywheel and get it balanced though. What is your opinion.
Kindest regards
Garry

Originally Posted by garryseries3

Yes the the blue print term is interpted differently with crew. thamks for that info on balancing. As for the other point regarding a heavier flywheel what is you opinion of doing this, of cause it all depends on how much you add but it should soften the idling effect on the drive train I would have thought. Considering how much low down torque these motors have that additional weight on the flywheel should not effect performance that much. I know you seem to know heaps about these motors so it worth me asking would it be possible to obtain a heavier flywheel of a different model motor and fit it. Even if it was to be machined down to take the flywheel and/or ring gear. I considered it proberly simpler to just add weights to the flywheel and get it balanced though. What is your opinion.
Kindest regards
Garry

My opinion on the heavier flywheel, I plan to do it. I started investigation about a year ago (too many projects, too little time).

Next time I have the engine out I plan to measure up the clutch and bellhousing as well as I can to see if there's room for a thicker flywheel to push everything back. There are several other industrial flywheels which are heavier, but it may be possible to just bolt a spacer on.
It all depends how much room is available and how much work is required to create more room.

My turbo can produce 17psi boost at 1400rpm, but the flywheel doesn't have enough intertai to use that torque.

My industrial parts catalogue shows 6 different flywheel assembly numbers. A flywheel assembly is the flywheel and ring-gear. Three are pictured and all heavier than the automotive and substantially thicker.

512330-0560 - PV type for generators
894135-2140 - PA type for farm tractors (MT7300)
894131-0620 - TPA type for hydraulic excavator
512330-2190 - P04-05 type for hitachi UH053 excavators
894129-7160 - PY1 for hydraulic excavator
894406-7540 - PTH/PH for hitachi ex120 and ex100 excavators.

Who wants to do some scouting at wrecker yards?