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Thread: 4BD1T Intercoolers

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    This is not meant to be scientific, and your engine wont detonate if its wrong (unlike a egt).

    Andy
    Yeah that'll work. I was actually using three wire sensors for my intake temps and ran them exposed through the ports I mentioned before. I save the K types for my exhaust.

    This was four years ago now.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by rijidij View Post
    I'm not up to speed with the technical side of thermocouples.

    Just to clarify, are you saying that you can just use the bare end of a thermocouple cable. As long as you twist (solder ??) the two wires together, it will give you a reading off the tip ?? That would surely be a lot more simple for what we want to do.
    If, for example, you cut a probe off and then twitched the wires, would it give the same reading as the probe did ??

    Cheers, Murray
    Thermocouples work on the principle of temp at the junction of dissimilar metals creates a voltage - that was why you need the correct connectors/extension leads (so not to create additional dissimilar junctions).

    The thermocouple junction is often inside a sheath for protection (usually about 6 mm diameter), but is close to the tip of the sheath so it can be positioned where the temp is to be measured. They can be bought with exposed junction for faster response, but I wouldn't use one in the exhaust pre-turbo. A 3 mm sheath version will respond quicker to temp change than a 6 mm - don't mistake temperature response with the output display rate (you need to read the manufacturers specifications).

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by rijidij View Post
    I'm not up to speed with the technical side of thermocouples.

    Just to clarify, are you saying that you can just use the bare end of a thermocouple cable. As long as you twist (solder ??) the two wires together, it will give you a reading off the tip ?? That would surely be a lot more simple for what we want to do.
    If, for example, you cut a probe off and then twitched the wires, would it give the same reading as the probe did ??

    Cheers, Murray
    yes.

    but as john said, dont get it too hot. (egts are a no no, but intake and external temps are good).

    All the new thermocouples ive ever 'obtained' were pre joined. It looks like solder, so i guess it is. I know they do have the same effect if they are twisted together or pre joined.

    Andy

  4. #34
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    I've bought one of these >>>>>> Digital Thermometer <<<<<<

    I've since spotted this one which appears to be the same unit with a different brand/model >>>>>> Dig Thermometer <<<<<< This one works out a bit cheaper with the free postage.

    They certainly won't be top of the range units, but for the money I'm prepared to give one a go just for intake temp readings.

    Cheers, Murray
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  5. #35
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    I'm sure someone will immediately tell me the error of my ways, but why not run a 300tdi radiator/intercooler?

    Hoses and adapters are a bit awkward looking for the radiator, but don't look impossible.

    Go on, tell me how wrong I am.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by abaddonxi View Post
    I'm sure someone will immediately tell me the error of my ways, but why not run a 300tdi radiator/intercooler?

    Hoses and adapters are a bit awkward looking for the radiator, but don't look impossible.

    Go on, tell me how wrong I am.
    The setup would likely be a bit small (both the intercooler and the radiator).

  7. #37
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by rijidij View Post
    I'm not up to speed with the technical side of thermocouples.

    Just to clarify, are you saying that you can just use the bare end of a thermocouple cable. As long as you twist (solder ??) the two wires together, it will give you a reading off the tip ?? That would surely be a lot more simple for what we want to do.
    If, for example, you cut a probe off and then twitched the wires, would it give the same reading as the probe did ??

    Cheers, Murray
    Don't think solder will do it as you will introduce different metals and more junctions. I suspect that the thermocouples are actually spot welded, i.e., pressed together and current run through the actual junction to produce a weld with a know two metal junction.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by slug_burner View Post
    Don't think solder will do it as you will introduce different metals and more junctions. I suspect that the thermocouples are actually spot welded, i.e., pressed together and current run through the actual junction to produce a weld with a know two metal junction.
    I ended up buying some longer thermocouple leads that don't need to be cut, just to be sure...........pretty cheap anyway.

    Murray
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  9. #39
    Rangier Rover Guest
    I was given this today.... I wont bother putting it on the 4BD1 as looks to small. Its off a now very stressed Merc.


    Still leaning towards air water at this stage as more compact and far more efficient.
    Some how I have to fit it all in with an air con
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    I was given this today.... I wont bother putting it on the 4BD1 as looks to small. Its off a now very stressed Merc.


    Still leaning towards air water at this stage as more compact and far more efficient.
    Some how I have to fit it all in with an air con
    Air/water aren't more efficient than air/air, with both you're still relying on a front mounted radiator to shed the heat. But they are certainly more compact.
    I think that merc intercooler will work surprisingly well. How many kw was the merc it's off?

    As for thermocouples. Apparently you can solder them, but you need to make sure the wires themselves are in full contact and the solder just holds them together. Crimping is a lot easier.

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