Thread: too good to be true? Chain Saw sharpening.

I put the bar in a vice & go around the saw freehand with a cordless angle grinder using a disc that i have suitably profiled & knock off the depth guages as required , Takes about a minuite per side.

works a treat.

Used to sharpen them with a file when they came off hire. It's therapeutic when you're being paid by the hour.

Some chains sharpen from the top as in the Oregon cs300. I take one of these when I go bush, it has its own inbuilt sharpening stone, you just lift up a leaver for a couple of seconds while it is running and just keep on cutting--great for firewood.

Originally Posted by sharmy

Some chains sharpen from the top as in the Oregon cs300. I take one of these when I go bush, it has its own inbuilt sharpening stone, you just lift up a leaver for a couple of seconds while it is running and just keep on cutting--great for firewood.

I'm guessing this sharpener needs you to buy specific chains with it then

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

I'm guessing this sharpener needs you to buy specific chains with it then

Yes you do and each new chain comes with a sharpening stone. they are not badly priced if you shop around. I have got a couple out of the UK. There are a number of different ones so I gather other saws use the same set up.

Originally Posted by POD

I can't see how that gimmick that grinds the outside of the tooth could be any use, even if it did achieve an edge on the first couple of uses, the tooth would be the wrong shape before long and would not be able to be sharpened again without extensive work on the tooth gullet. I'm thinking yes, too good to be true. It will probably do what it is designed to do- sell several thousand units and make money for the designer.
I've revolutionised my chainsaw experience by learning to use a file properly, after using one of those drop-saw type sharpeners for many years with mixed results.

I use one of the flat, file holders, with the relevant angles marked on it. I was given a Stihl 'Raise and Lower' type sharpener, but prefer the flat, file holder. I normally give the chain teeth a three-pass touch every tank refill, unless cutting seasoned hardwood, such as old fence posts, power poles etc.
The only issue I have is that i have three saws, with different sized teeth.
One thing I have done is line marked both 45° angles on the top of the work bench, vice jaws. This makes it a little easier when sharpening, as well.

As Tombie said, a new chain is easy, but more expensive. When cutting for a living, quite often a chain roll is available to facilitate production.