Thread: The Ultimate FC

This is worth watching for a few reasons.


1/The vehicle is swimming and propelling its self with the stalwarts emergency water drive and steering system........the wheels.
This is most likely a Stalwart which had its swim gear removed or deactivated.
(no water jets, pumps and water steering)

2/The stalwart is beening driven with a bit of stick.(the motor is governed so you cant hurt it)

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nPeUS61ZXQ&feature=relmfu]Alvis Stalwart FV620 Swimming Action Shobdon Sept 1993 - YouTube[/ame]

Ps I love the weed on the mirrors.

Ron a recent post on EMLRA after I posted a link to this thread!

Originally Posted by ArtistsRifles

Many thanks for that link :-) First thing I noticed was the UK reg on your mates one - RCD 221 G! Mine is RCD 233 G - not so far apart :-) Mine was built in 1969.



Martin - much as I love my Stolly I conceed the landrover has a couple of significant advantages:

1 - A landie does a LOT more than 2.5 mpg
2 - You don't need a commander in a Landrover, you can drive solo.

Couple of points:
The circular plates on the roof are for radio aerials only - should be an ATU ring with the aerial mount above that - Stollys never carried (officially) amber warning lights whilst in service. Usual place for a "twirly is on the inside of the exhaust stack using the longest of the Landie aerial side-arms.

The "clearance lights" are actually the direction indicators!!

Other than this - he's done a very good job on the old girl. Congratulations to him

I have a plan now .
I am still working on road worthness and in the cabin.
The heater has never worked and therefore the window demist doesnt work and it should, to be fully legal.
While the cabin plates are up I have decided to replace the heater hoses.
The motor is in the back/stern and the heater is up at the front/bow.
Therefore the heater hoses are very long.
It was about a days work just to get the old items out.
I had plenty of 1/2 inch heater hose at work...... cheap as....no problem I thought.......wrong.
Inspection of the original 40 year old hose showed it not failed not though age, but by beening affected by oil.
200 dollars later and another day of stuffing around I have now fitted transmission cooler hose instead.
The route of the hose is good until it has to go down to the bottom of the hull under a bulk head and around the winch box which means it sits in the water, oil and goo which is the bottom of the hull.
Oil resistant hose is the best for the job.
I plan to run 7 core trailer wire to the rear/ motor while I am at it for future use.
I am using stainless replacement bolts and hose clamps where possible.
Some new hose support clamps in stainless still need to be made.

I will be working from the front/bow to the rear/stern via the leaking RHS front inner tracta joint.
I have beening doing work on the glass place next doors forklift for nothing as he will remove the cabin glass(and refit) for me so I can treat the rust.

The winch box under the cabin is perfect for sinking the vehicle if swum.
It appears to use the same type of seal for.
1/ free spool dog clutch lever
2/cable remaining indicator
3/Oil filler hose
The OD of the seal is more than 3 inches and is of rubber which should go soft with age and pop out with use in the water.
Both bilge pumps would not be able to cope.......only buy you time to get to shore.
I have been counting other possible sources of trouble.

Leaving the 2 drain plugs out which are about 3 inches OD would be a big problem too.

The rear tail/stop lights are drained via exturnal 1/2 id tube......hose must be in good condition.

Side gate and tail gate doors and rubber seals must be in good condition.
(doors can bend in service if used to hold the load in.)

Front parking and direction indicator lights and rear tail/stop/direction indicator lights must be in good condtion, or another good leak could occur.

Access plates to drain engine oil must be sealed with silcone or gasket with all bolts fitted.

The rear hull access plate has to be sealed and all bolts fitted.( it has a crankhandle plug in it too)

Winch bottom cover plate must have all the screws in as they thread though the hull.

Window sealing is important

There is more , but I cannot think of them.

The transmission, tracta joint, hub seals must be in good nick if you dont want water in the running gear.

The central lube system hoses, the radiator drain, hydraulic oil drain ,tracta, hub drain, transfercase drain, gear box drain are all places to let water in where you dont want it.

Alot of work if swum in water.

Throw in more rust holes than I can count and this thing will not be swimming any time soon.

Bottom winch cover plate is now painted.
I dont know if to make a gasket, or just use silastic.
(silastic will make it hard to remove in the future)
I am using one of those high tec anti rust super tuff paints with the silver for the inside of the hull.
Painting in the cabin is being done by brush as the over spray and flumes would be a big problem for me as i dont have breathing gear.
I am not being to fussy about runs and how it looks for stuff you cannot see.
Preventing cancer is my main aim.


That square tube type thing is for a round metal plunger which is unlocked and lifted up from the cabin to drain the winch box after departing from some deep water.

Enjoying the thread Ron,

Easo

Is anyone up to speed on over width regulations on vehicles.
I know with a over width trailered or carried load a oversize sign must be displayed and flags placed on the widest part of the load.
Does that apply to a driven vehicle as well ?
Now I am getting to a stage of where I can drive this beast a bit, buying a oversize sign for front and rear may be wise.
When the RTA sent me the bit of paper to carry with the stalwart for its over width , nothing is mentioned but requirements.
The silly part about it you would be hard pressed to spot the over width as it is only a very small amount over.