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Thread: Brute's 101

  1. #131
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    Another job on the list was to fit a remote oil filter to give some diff clearance, and connect the oil cooler. I mounted the filter behind the radiator grill so its easy to get at and change and should also aid cooling if indeed it needs it. With the cooler now fitted it takes about 20 mins running around the block before the thermostat even opens so think the cooling side is going to be ok.

    Next jobs on the list are fitting the other seat and seat belts, reverse light, re rivet some of the angles under the rear body and then hopefully I will be close to joining Stuee and John at the WA pits.
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  2. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brute View Post
    Another job on the list was to fit a remote oil filter to give some diff clearance, and connect the oil cooler. I mounted the filter behind the radiator grill so its easy to get at and change and should also aid cooling if indeed it needs it. With the cooler now fitted it takes about 20 mins running around the block before the thermostat even opens so think the cooling side is going to be ok.

    Next jobs on the list are fitting the other seat and seat belts, reverse light, re rivet some of the angles under the rear body and then hopefully I will be close to joining Stuee and John at the WA pits.
    That looks like a really neat setup. You'll have a lot less oil spilled than the factory filter when changing them. Does it prime okay with that remote setup after a filter change?

  3. #133
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    [QUOTE=Brute;2206976. I`m quite surprised with how much air the heater fan chucks out, ( after I worked out I had to pull up the knob to open the flap).[/QUOTE]

    What knob? I have worked out the "tap" to bring hot water through the heater matrix. What flap? I have found the flap in the tunnel that brings air to your feet. Is it these you're referring to?

    One of my jobs is to figure why the fan doesn't appear to work because I get lovely warm air but only so long as I'm moving. Switching the fan off, low or high doesn't make any difference so I have assumed I need to look into the fan unit and power to it.

    It'll make a great sight to have your's, Stuee's and my 101's out together one day!

  4. #134
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    There is an air flap between the fan and the heater matrix - is at the top of the fan housing - is cable operated.
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    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #135
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    I pumped oil through the cooler and filter with a hand pump before connecting to the engine Stuee, I dont think the cooler will drain down at oil change time, so as long as the filter is pre filled all should be good. The Z9 filter is about twice as long as the standard rangy one too.

  6. #136
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    Williamstown, Barossa, SA
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    When you tried to flush your heater matrix, did you have the red handled tap in the cab open?
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  7. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBoRover View Post
    What knob? I have worked out the "tap" to bring hot water through the heater matrix. What flap? I have found the flap in the tunnel that brings air to your feet. Is it these you're referring to?

    One of my jobs is to figure why the fan doesn't appear to work because I get lovely warm air but only so long as I'm moving. Switching the fan off, low or high doesn't make any difference so I have assumed I need to look into the fan unit and power to it.

    It'll make a great sight to have your's, Stuee's and my 101's out together one day!
    There is a little knob just in front of the Hi/Lo lever, lift it up to open the flap to let air though the heater, has 2 positions on a detent. If you have air while you are moving it must be open anyway. My heater motor had a bad earth so might be worth checking that if the fan isn't working. Also my switch is a bit temperamental and needs 2 goes sometimes.

    We will have to get the 3 101s together when they are all road legal. Maybe book them all in at the pits together

  8. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sitec View Post
    When you tried to flush your heater matrix, did you have the red handled tap in the cab open?
    Had all the hoses off so the red tap wasn't connected. Strangely the red handle tap was nice and clean inside, turns freely and doesn't leak.
    When I took the hoses off ages ago there was a big slimey lump of rusty gloop dropped out of the heater matrix which is what urged me to flush it before connecting up. glad I did.

  9. #139
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    Jan 1970
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brute View Post
    We will have to get the 3 101s together when they are all road legal. Maybe book them all in at the pits together
    Yes sir my discs were an optional extra at the time

  10. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brute View Post
    Had all the hoses off so the red tap wasn't connected. Strangely the red handle tap was nice and clean inside, turns freely and doesn't leak.
    When I took the hoses off ages ago there was a big slimey lump of rusty gloop dropped out of the heater matrix which is what urged me to flush it before connecting up. glad I did.
    I was surprised at the condition of my heater valve too. It had been in the weather for quite a while and the wheel had siezed up. I was soaking it in WD40 to get the bracket off that holds it and purchased a new tap in the mean time. The WD40 did enough to free the valve and it seals perfectly. I cleaned and polished mine up and am still using the original.

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