I think AutoBarn, SuperCheap etc. would all stock GL4 gear oil. I've used Mobil and Shell but it was starting to get expensive so I buy through the blender below, about $14plus GST for 5 litres but shipping may be an issue.
Gear Oils
Colin
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I think AutoBarn, SuperCheap etc. would all stock GL4 gear oil. I've used Mobil and Shell but it was starting to get expensive so I buy through the blender below, about $14plus GST for 5 litres but shipping may be an issue.
Gear Oils
Colin
Orderd my Roverdrive today so hope to be fitting it soon.
At the moment I am running Castrol syntrans in my transfer case and I am hoping this will be fine for the Roverdrive as well.
Dave
Most all synthetic GL5 oils are buffered, ie the sulphur EP additive is deactivated to prevent discolouration and corrosion of copper based components.
A buffered GL5 diff/transaxle fluid like Castrol Syntrax, Motul Gear 300, Torco RTF, etc are fine.
They have a Copper discolour rating of 1b so yellow metals are inert.
Even most straight diff oils use buffered sulphur these days to prevent copper corrosion, but you do have to check.
If in doubt find a technical or product data sheet and look for the copper corrosion number.
If you are still concerned Redline MT90 or Castrol Syntrans M (for Eaton and Rockwell gearboxes) are 75W-90 GL4 full synthetic manual gearbox fluids.
There are others but I remember these two off the top of my head.
Personally I'd go for one of the former fluids listed, they just give a measure of protection above a GL4 fluid in situations of extreme heat/loads.
Hi Onesilop, I orderd it from modern motors As sugested by Big Harold in this thread. Thought about bringing one in from the state's but in the end decided it was all to much mucking around.modern moters had one in stock about $400 cheaper than T1aslav was quoted by British offroad and posted same day.
Dave
On my Series Roverdrive it burnt the synthetic oil in it while driving up through the Pilbara in extreme heat. I contacted the company and was told the finned bottom plate would help and so I got one and it made no difference. Much later on, Ray Wood contacted me out of the blue and offered the improved housing they apparently use now to deal with this heat, so I said that yes, I would like that and then I never heard from him again.Quote:
This has been stipulated by the manufacturer because of the high temperatures the Roverdrive can run at.
My Roverdrive was a wonderful bit of very expensive equipment and worked really well, and I'd recommend them for cooler climates. But once the ambient temperature got to about 35c or so and above, it just couldn't dissipate the enormous amount of heat it created quickly enough. Once temperatures got into the 40s, it was hopeless. Ray reckoned they'd been tested here - which was one of the big selling points for me - but I wonder if it was only in the Dry season.
I only point this out so that those of you who have one of these new versions know to keep a close eye on them in extreme heat. I didn't know, so I used it in conditions it wasn't up to.
Thanks for the info Davo. I have ordered the finned cover as both Roverdrive & modern motors told me it was advisable.
I was tossing up whether or not to fit a temp gauge but now certainly will.
I am assuming That if it starts to run hot that disengaging the overdrive will put the transfer box back into its normal running mode and allow it to cool. Do you know if this is correct ? .
Dave.
Modern Motors at Dungog NSW Ph 02 49921486. They seem real good to deal with.
I think they're a planetary drive, (and they actually have a used auto box gear in them), and that the drive goes through them whether they're engaged or not. So they'd be turning as long as you're driving, the only difference being in how the gears inside are engaged. Their website used to have some diagrams and a good explanation of this.
Definitely fit a gauge and see how you go this summer.