Do you mind if I ask where you got your gauge and what it cost.( trying to plug the hole in my wallet )
Cheers Dave[/QUOTE]
Dave, PM sent.
Cheers,
Paul.
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Do you mind if I ask where you got your gauge and what it cost.( trying to plug the hole in my wallet )
Cheers Dave[/QUOTE]
Dave, PM sent.
Cheers,
Paul.
Thanks Paul PM replied to.
Hi Michael, looking closely at their gauge it has the water temperature symbol on it although it states oil temperature on the bottom.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael2
Ray Wood says to keep the operating temp below 100 C so it will be interesting to see what temps different people are running/achieving.
Cheers,
Paul.
Below a 100*C...wow. I don't think I have ever achieved that (and I'm running a 5 speed LT77).
*EDIT*
I should perhaps also add that I only have a 2.5D N/A up front too.
I wouldn't mind borrowing and trying out a TM2 (or similar), just to see what temps are being reached, before I remove - drill - and re-install the Roverdrive unit.
I might be able to borrow a Laser Thermometer later in the week, maybe if someone has one of those, take it with you, and the temp of the t/case after a high speed drive. Just the standard t/case temp would do as a base line.
In the meantime, I'll send Ray an email and bring this thread to his attention, he may have further to add.
As the manufacturers of the Roverdrive we are a cautions bunch. This is the reason a API GL-4 synthetic is recommended in the DS Roverdrive installation instructions. The suggestion is made to protect tourists in the Piibara in summer and people who drive an aggressively tuned TD5s. The faster you go the hotter the oil will get which is why we suggest a temperature gauge on the transfer case in such installations. It does not help that Australian spec TD5 have no oil cooler on the R380.
In real life, if you have a bog standard 4BD1, 200Tdi, 300Tdi or Td5, standard mineral oils of API GL4 75-90 standard will work well and cost considerably less than Synthetic API GL4. A good example of a API GL4 oil is the MTF94 oil used in the R380 gearbox. Penrite Manual Gear Oil 80 is another common option in Australia.
What you should never do is substitute an API GL5 for the recommended API GL4. GL-5 oils are defined as oils for hyploid axles. These GL-5 oils are laced with additives which make them great in axles but they are very damaging to gearboxes (like the Roverdrive) that have bronze synchros and thrust washers. If it says API GL5 on the bottle please keep it away from your Roverdrive. Also avoid certain expensive and highly toted lubricants that have no API specification on the bottle.
The is a interesting article on this subject at http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf
Retail prices of Roverdrives in Australia do seem high by international standards but I am told that this is due to a high tariff imposed by your customs. This seems unfair to me as Australian products like OME enter Canada virtually duty free.
Ray Wood MD Roverdrive Gear Corporation, Vancouver Canada
Hi Ray,
good to see you here but a couple of points.
Firstly, Australian spec TD5 engined Land Rovers with the R380 all have oil coolers, albeit a simple pipe running up alongside the engine, but it's the same as any other TD5 sold anywhere in the world (outside of Europe).
300Tdi's don't have the oil cooler from the factory.
Secondly, as I've stated above in post # 34 a buffered, dual rated GL4/GL5 manual transmission/transaxle fluid is safe with yellow metals, IMO.
The easiest way to check is look for the copper corrosion number on a data sheet.
1a or 1b is fine.
A number of vehicles sold use a hypoid diff with a normal synchro transmission containing bronze synchro cones, eg Subaru and so the need for a buffered, dual rated fluid.
I've used dual rated fluids in many vehicles such as Nisssan's for many hundreds of thousands of km without issue.
One vehicle here has just clicked over 385,000km on the original transmission and it uses Castrol Syntrax, a dual rated manual trans fluid and has done since the 100,000km mark.
Prior to that it used Fuchs 75w-90, another dual rated fluid.
It shifts as well today as when new.
Again, the copper corrosion number tells all.
Re your link I've spoken to Richard in the past and have a lot of respect for him, we were both on an oil board many years ago and he has some very good,practical experience as he is/was an oil importer/distributor in Bolivia but I tend to disagree with him this time.
I've never had or experienced the synchro problem he describes and can state that there are far less 'whiskers' ie ferrous material on the magnet when doing a fluid change with the heavier additised, dual rated manual transmission/transaxle fluids.
My advice comes from the people that blend fluids, two tribolgists in particular and a very smart oil analyst who I used to analyse my raw data from oil sampling I used to regularly conduct.
The LT230 t/case specifies SAE90, 80W-90 or 75W-90 fluids.
Any SAE xW-90 fluid must fall into the range between 13.5cSt to 18.5 cSt @ 100*C, common ones seem to fall around the 14-15.5cSt mark with the odd one at the upper or lower ends.
MTF94 is a 75W-80 fluid with a kinematic viscosity of only 10.5cSt @ 100*C. It is a semi-synthetic fluid.
Penrite Manual gear oil 80 is a 75W-85 fluid with a kinematic viscosity of 12.2cSt @ 100*C and is a mineral based fluid with a pretty low viscosity index.
IMO there are better fluids available for the t/case, and if someone is using your overdrive and is still very concerned about synchro/fluid compatibility then I'd use Redline MT90, Castrol Syntrans M or similar.
These are full synthetic 75W-90 fluids, both using ester/PAO base oils.
BTW, duty is only 5% on imported motor vehicle parts and then a GST (VAT) of 10% is added after importation.
http://www.customs.gov.au/webdata/re...es/ACN0949.pdf
This is a great thread, thanks Harro :). I've been weighing up whether to instal an overdrive or a 1.2 ratio transfer box and have read a number of posts on each option.
An overdrive would be good as I could take it with me if I ever sold my Deefa (but my lady reckons I'll be buried in it so maybe that's not a consideration.)
But I think the new transfer box is about to win out as it's a fair bit cheaper to get a reconditioned box with 1.2 ratio and case sleeving modification than a Roverdrive (about $1400 less for the parts and freight).
The mechanic's cost fitting a transfer box will be more than for a Roverdrive but I need to fix the perrenial transfer box oil leak, so I'm up for a few hours labour anyway, plus the cost of sleeving the case.
I'll take the opportunity to have a heavy duty cross pin fitted and a larger volume sump.
Also, Ashcrofts sell an oil cooler kit for the transfer box. The piping under the car that Ric130 mentioned really does look pretty ordinary. Is a proper oil cooler worth buying? It's not cheap (about $400 for the kit) but I'd like to do everything possible to look after my new transfer box.
I guess an oil cooler like this could be the go for anyone using a Roverdrive, too, as the oil is shared between the two units isn't it?
Hi Dan,Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
I didn't know you could get a cooler for the t/case.
I know you can get one for the R380 (gearbox) but If the gearbox ran cooler it would probably help to cool the T/case as I am sure heat is transferred from the box to the T/case during normal operation.
Good luck with your Disco T/case, if not for the roverdrive I certainly would have gone that way;).
You're right - the oil cooler I saw is for the gearbox, not the transfer case, and the piping leads from the gearbox. It must be time for stronger glasses.