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Thread: Tray Mounts

  1. #1
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    Tray Mounts

    Hi all,

    Need/want to lift my tray about an inch and need to replace the rubber pads anyway.

    Is there any reason why I shoulnt insert some engine mounts, like these, 3 each side instead?



    cheers

  2. #2
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    Opinion: Engine mounts - no. Too much sideways force that could shear the mount (even though there is some reinforcement) Try body lift stuff?

  3. #3
    alanw is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Would suggest some form of flexible mount would be a good idea.

    Like many with a 130DC routinely carrying heavy loads and heavy towing, I have managed to crack the chassis. Was an easy fix - but I am of the view that part of my problem was due to tray mounts which were too rigid.

    I had got a bit sick of cracked tray mounts on previous vehicles and when I built the tray for the 130 I made the mounts quite rigid - and the first thing to give was the chassis.

    alanw

  4. #4
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    Probally why in past times trays were mounted on lengths of timber with "U" bolts holding them down in about four locations. This would have allowed for flexing and been more forgiving on the chassis and tray!
    You only have to follow a semi on an undulating road at night to see how much a steel tray can flex.



    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by alanw View Post
    Would suggest some form of flexible mount would be a good idea.

    Like many with a 130DC routinely carrying heavy loads and heavy towing, I have managed to crack the chassis. Was an easy fix - but I am of the view that part of my problem was due to tray mounts which were too rigid.

    I had got a bit sick of cracked tray mounts on previous vehicles and when I built the tray for the 130 I made the mounts quite rigid - and the first thing to give was the chassis.

    alanw
    Which area cracked? My 130 puma has just cracked the tray mounts,behind the cab for the second time.the first time they cracked I had the body builders remove the tray and fit pieces of heavy rubber on all mounts, this fixed the problem for about 8 months.they have (stupidly?) used the factory raised mounts off the chassis, that are held in by 3 Tex screws on each side, the chassis itself hasn't cracked, it's the top of the mounts that the tray bolts onto that's given way. The front of the tray would be carrying perhaps about 550-600kg all the time, suggestions on a permanent fix would be welcome.

  6. #6
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    Years ago I read about engine mounts on compressors. Those mounted vertically eccentuated vibration, while the more expensive compressors had mounts on 45 deg angles (like a car) which cancelled the vibrations. I since imagined putting a series of 45 deg brackets on a chassis with corresponding brackets on the body and 'isolating' th bod from the chassis. The way the firewall is mounted is an "impossibility", but if I ever built a custom orward control camper on a Land Rover chassis, I'd do that.

    It's more work, but if you can fabricate 45 degree mounts, I think it will work a whole lot better.

  7. #7
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    My chassis mounts need to be rebuilt as they have cracked and been repaired at least 3 times that I can see, though fortunately the brackets have been the weakest link and the chassis is ok.
    So fabricating some modified tray mounts to suit is no drama.

    I was looking at fitting the engine mounts at 45 deg or using the 45 degree mounts for the tray. I think this straight style mounted at 45 would be the better option of the 2, but.....
    The only thing I could think of with the engine mount idea was the shear stress in case of a collision. Dont want the tray coming through the back.
    Very little chance of torsional forces breaking them and real easy to change out if one does start to fail and no welding repairs (in theory)

    Dont want to cause a roadworthy issue either.

    Langy do you mean "body lift" type mountings or do you know of a specific type of chassis/tray mounting.

    I can get some blocks of Polyurethane and put longer through bolts with oversize holes and heavy retainer plates to allow the tray to flex better on the mounts when needed, but the mob in Alice want nearly $200 for the blocks, which I thought was bit steep.

    Thanks for the input

    cheers

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangy View Post
    ...I was looking at fitting the engine mounts at 45 deg or using the 45 degree mounts for the tray. I think this straight style mounted at 45 would be the better option of the 2, but.....
    The only thing I could think of with the engine mount idea was the shear stress in case of a collision. Dont want the tray coming through the back.
    Very little chance of torsional forces breaking them and real easy to change out if one does start to fail and no welding repairs (in theory)...
    It sounds like a legitimate concern, but how many times has anyone seen an engine and gearbox shear off their mounts in an accident?

    I'd be pretty confident in a series (6-8) of 45 degree mounts, but you could always weld on on a tether (maybe a short chain) on each corner in case of catastrophic failure.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangy View Post
    Hi all,

    Need/want to lift my tray about an inch and need to replace the rubber pads anyway.

    Is there any reason why I shoulnt insert some engine mounts, like these, 3 each side instead?



    cheers
    Go down to your local plastic center and ask for some 50mm Acetal roundbar, Acetal is well known for its friction and wear properties, It is more rigid and is more resistant to environmental stress cracking.
    Cut them to your desired length and drill them out with a 10.5 throught the center fit an M10 x 8.8 bolt and nylock nut and your done. I have used them for body lifts on several occasions .

  10. #10
    alanw is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Which area cracked? My 130 puma has just cracked the tray mounts,behind the cab for the second time.the first time they cracked I had the body builders remove the tray and fit pieces of heavy rubber on all mounts, this fixed the problem for about 8 months.
    The break was just behind the back cabin - where the chassis goes from being straight to rising up to go over the rear axle. In effect a bit of a stress point - and complicated/aggravated by a factory weld directly across the top of the chassis at this point. The initial break was on the edge of this weld on both sides. All of the tray mounts are rear of this.

    The break was from the top down reflecting the loads on the rear of the vehicle. Have a spare (heavy wolf rim etc) under the tray at the rear - also large tool boxes under the tray behind the wheels and often put a 1t pallet on the tray. Not to mention towing tandem trailers. So the loads have been significant (and probably a tad overspec) and it took abt 170K of not very good roads for the break to happen. I don't rate it as a major problem and it was easy to fix.

    If I was building the tray again I would put some flexibility into the tray mounts and try to include a mounting point forward of where the crack occurred. Would take a bit of fabrication but would not be difficult. And would look at reinforcing the chassis where it cracked.

    I would prefer to be repairing tray mounts rather than a broken chassis.

    alanw

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