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Thread: The ultimate solution to Td5 vibration / knocking

  1. #41
    Hamish71 Guest
    So...do we close this off and say....."Its a TD5 thing"....and live with it

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hamish71 View Post
    So...do we close this off and say....."Its a TD5 thing"....and live with it
    Anyone driven the Volvo 5-cylinder? What about the Ford focus or mondeo. All 5 cylinders.....

    ...bet they don't exibit the same symtoms..

  3. #43
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    I have not given up and found the following thread that deals with the exact same issue: TD5 vibration 2500-3500 rpm

    So I will replace the engine mounts as soon as possible, I will also see if I can move the flywheel via the inspection hole in the bellhousing, and replace the exhaust rubber mounts as well. See if it makes a difference. By the way, the linkage of the Discovery 1 CDL I have installed does contribute to the noise as it happily rattles along in the 2200-3000 frustration zone . Already thinking of an Ashcroft or Solenoid alternative, but not before I fix the things as mentioned above.

  4. #44
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    Ok. Finally had time to replace the engine mounts. Following the thread on this forum the removal and replacement of the RH mount was easy, but there was no way I could remove the LH mount. Had to unbolt the engine mount bracket (4 bolts). But now the mounts are replaced, and the drive is slightly smoother than with the old mounts.

    As I read somewhere that ECU tuning occurs right in the 2000 - 3000 rpm range, and my ECU is tuned, I will try a spare ECU tonight, after reprogramming the proper injector codes and throttle pedal type. See if that makes a difference.

    Items on my anti-vibration to-do list are to remove the damper from the crankshaft pully and to remove the damper from the gearbox, just to see if that helps. I will definitely remove the Disco 1 Hi-Lo-Difflock lever and replace it with the original one and solenoid fix for the difflock, or get an Ashroft Transmission lever, since the D1 lever is a noise maker!

    To be continued.

  5. #45
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    removed the damper from the crankshaft pulley - made no difference. Replaced ECU with a non tuned one - made no difference in vibrations but wow did I got used to the tuned one - what a difference

    I can only think of the torque converter maybe or the flywheel as the flex plate looked fine when I checked it through the inspection opening by turning the crankshaft and looking at each bolt area - no cracks. How would I know if the flywheel is the culprit?

  6. #46
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    No flywheel in an Auto. Can only fully check the flex plate with the gearbox out

  7. #47
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    Sorry but I don't agree. Auto's definetely have a flywheel with the starter gear crimped on. After some miles in the Disco I must admit that changing the engine mounts DID HELP A LOT. The only think making noise now is the D1 CDL lever. I have ordered a CDL linkage from Ashcroft, going to replace the D1 linkage and see if that helps.

  8. #48
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by dutchviking View Post
    Sorry but I don't agree. Auto's definetely have a flywheel with the starter gear crimped on. After some miles in the Disco I must admit that changing the engine mounts DID HELP A LOT. The only think making noise now is the D1 CDL lever. I have ordered a CDL linkage from Ashcroft, going to replace the D1 linkage and see if that helps.
    Nope he's correct above...

    No flywheel on an Auto..

    Theres a FLEX PLATE + Ring Gear

  9. #49
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    OK - checking Microcat it is called a flywheel but also a GEAR CARRIER. So no dual mass flywheel in an autobox. That's cool. It means one thing less to worry about, correct? Still the vibration issue. The cause is the engine. You can soften it's effects by changing to new mounts. But it was not vibrating that much in the beginning (5 years ago), it worsened over time. Is that just caused by internal wear of the components like bearings and the like?

  10. #50
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    THE END

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