Thread: Suspension - Bilsteins 7100

Will, While not on a D2, originallt I went with 360/80 valving all round on my 90, with 12" 7100's and the rears were totally inadequate in my opinion

They are relatively easy to re-valve. However a word of warning.

I cant find anywhere in Australia to buy shim stacks from, and I got charged from memory, 160$ postage for a jiffy bag weighing about 400grams with the 2 special tools, a pair of shim stacks for 400/100 and 2 seal kits.

I also upped the weight of the oil to a 10wt fork oil, so think assuming the std oil is I believe about a 7.5wt should have roughly I think valving of 530/135 ish.

It is a lot better now.

Cheers Pete, based on that I think I'd be best to go for the 400/100, I want to be able to comfortably drag the Rangie all over the countryside with this thing!

Cheers
Will

I think it's partly going to depend on what springs people are running to what they consider enough dampening.

I'm on air bags and as I said in the other thread, if I did it again, I'd go the 400/100 valving. I have other issues to sort out first but I'm interested in "Psimpson7"'s idea of just changing oil weight.

I wouldn't say 360/80 was totally inadequate but I just feel they are a little bit soft for my driving. I like to hook along just a little bit and I know many others prefer a smooth ride.

Happy Days.

Originally Posted by joel0407

I think it's partly going to depend on what springs people are running to what they consider enough dampening.

I'm on air bags and as I said in the other thread, if I did it again, I'd go the 400/100 valving. I have other issues to sort out first but I'm interested in "Psimpson7"'s idea of just changing oil weight.

I wouldn't say 360/80 was totally inadequate but I just feel they are a little bit soft for my driving. I like to hook along just a little bit and I know many others prefer a smooth ride.

Happy Days.

I have the issue of driving like I stole it, and wanting a smooth ride...

Trying to build a car that will flex up well, yet still sit on the highway dead flat and straight at 120 is going to be challenging! But I think it can be done with the right approach.

I'll see how I go I guess!

Cheers
Will

Originally Posted by MR LR

I have the issue of driving like I stole it, and wanting a smooth ride...

Trying to build a car that will flex up well, yet still sit on the highway dead flat and straight at 120 is going to be challenging! But I think it can be done with the right approach.

I'll see how I go I guess!

Cheers
Will

Do you have ACE? It's surprisingly good.

Heavier shocks won't restrict your flex. They just slow the reaction time or movement speed.

Happy Days.

Nope, no ACE, all the chassis replacements we did on '99 MY cars scared dad off it so the cars we kept never had it, I'll just run some disconnects that I'll make up.

Yeah, I was more talking about the suspension set up to allow that length of shock, swaybar disconnects will hopefully allow big flex off the road, and make it behave on!

It's difficult to make a really good all rounder, but I think I picked the right platform!

Cheers
Will

Photos Please.

Hi Guys. been doing lots of reading still can't decide what to get apart from Billie 7100s and lower shock mounts for the front.

If you have this set up I would love to know what version/Valving you bought. any photos of the end install would be great.

I have a 2000 td5 Disco with ACE and SLS that I am retaining. I have 3inch lifted springs that apparently come down to 2 inch once I fit the front Bar.
Dobinsons from memory out in the shed awaiting shocks.

I have 2 inch blocks for the SLS bags.

I figure this is pretty common set up so what 7100is did you buy and how did you convert from rose joints?

Cheers

Matt

Originally Posted by mattg

Photos Please.

Hi Guys. been doing lots of reading still can't decide what to get apart from Billie 7100s and lower shock mounts for the front.

If you have this set up I would love to know what version/Valving you bought. any photos of the end install would be great.

I have a 2000 td5 Disco with ACE and SLS that I am retaining. I have 3inch lifted springs that apparently come down to 2 inch once I fit the front Bar.
Dobinsons from memory out in the shed awaiting shocks.

I have 2 inch blocks for the SLS bags.

I figure this is pretty common set up so what 7100is did you buy and how did you convert from rose joints?

Cheers

Matt

Photos of what? Mine is currently on axle stands with the front wheels off so I can take some decent photos.

I think you mean taller shock mounts for the front, not lower. The closed lenght of the 10" short bodies are too long with standard turrets and bump stops. You need to either lower the bump stops or fit taller turrets. Lowering the bump stops is the cheapest option and what I have done until I get the turrets. Lowering the bump stops means you loose upward travel so if you have 2" lift and then lower the bump stops by 1" then you have only really gained 1" of extra upward travel.

In the SLS rear. I'd recommend 12" short bodies as I am led to believe that with the 2" lifting blocks that you fit under the air bags can cause the internals of the bags to make contact under full compression so you should also lower the bump stops in the rear if you fit the lifting blocks.

While the 10" short bodies are very close in closed length to the standard shocks the lower mounts on the front shocks gets lifted with the RTE adaptor. There is no addition in the rear and with the extended bump stops the shocks are about 2" off fully closed when the axle is on the bump stops. White Tiger make an adaptor to lift the rear shock bottom mount that I need to fit as I only have the 10" short bodies.

Hope that makes sense.

Happy Days.