They're a ***** to fit on a D2, and if you don't have a spring compressor, not a simple job.
You are correct. Same range of movement = same point of binding. But with spacers you introduce additional range for the axle to travel because the bump stop is now further away. Through that extra range the coil will bind.
Can you swing a spanner? Got jack stands and a trolley jack? Springs + shocks can be bought for under $800 and they're simple to remove and refit.
They're a ***** to fit on a D2, and if you don't have a spring compressor, not a simple job.
i was quoted $1075 for supply and around $1500 for supply and fit incl. wheel alignment, all from 4x4 and more in osborne park here in perth.... prices elsewhere seem comparable, but these guys have a good rep from what i've heard.
i've discovered another issue that might put the skids on the whole lift idea...
the clearance between my the garage door on my garage and the roof bars on the disco is only about 70mm. add a 50mm lift and this gets a bit close for comfort... add 265 rubber and i'm looking at a scrapey surprise. ouch.
not sure how i can get around this other than raising my whole house, carving a hole in the floor for my car or letting down my tyres every time i come back to the house.
or i could just, you know... park outside...
Is the house on piers or a slab?
The front is more of the problem here. The other issue with a lower spacer is when the axle articulates it will push the front springs harder into the side of the chassis, something which is problematic for some from the factory. The shock length is also suited the the standard springs free (open) length, if you add a 50mm spacer to the spring you increase the effective free length which doesn't allow the spring to unload enough before the shock runs out of travel which will lead to clunking and then eventually it's breaking. You can run slightly longer shocks but then the cost of spring spacers and shocks is more than just springs.
You're much better fitting lift springs which will have the right spring rate to support your weight, control future sagging (beyond settling), and they'll have a similar free length to standard so won't damage other components - note that 2" lift springs a normally not much longer than standard due to the increase in spring rate.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
I was able to get the garage door adjusted 50 mm higher opening - might be a possiblity, especially if you have electric auto opening
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
I've just got a kit to drop the back of mine for the garage too (SLS).
As you're not changing your tyre size drastically why not just get harder springs. That will firm everything up and stop the sag.
If you're doing it yourself you are welcome to borrow my spring clamps.
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