Thread: RRC sold - were is the TD5 performance mod sticky?

Interesting info I found
More smoke more power!

Diesel Air/Fuel Ratios
Diesel engines produce very little carbon monoxide, since combustion
takes place in an oxygen-rich environment

Diesels do not run at the same stoichiometric ratio as gasoline
engines (14.7:1)

Diesels run about 50% leaner than gas engine stoichiometric mixture.
Engine needs about 18 times more air by mass than fuel to maintain a
smoke-free tailpipe.

Smoke-free operation is usually around 22:1 air-to-fuel ratio (AFR)

As additional fuel is added, more air is needed to stay smoke-free

Black smoke indicates we are producing particulate matter by not burning
all the fuel

Even with black smoke, you can still add more fuel to produce more
power, but combustion efficiency goes down

White smoke is extreme over-fueling
Some white smoke is normal during cold start-up

Cylinder temperatures are too low to burn all the fuel, resulting in some
blue and/or white smoke

Originally Posted by northiam

Interesting info I found
More smoke more power!

Diesel Air/Fuel Ratios
Diesel engines produce very little carbon monoxide, since combustion
takes place in an oxygen-rich environment

Diesels do not run at the same stoichiometric ratio as gasoline
engines (14.7:1)

Diesels run about 50% leaner than gas engine stoichiometric mixture.
Engine needs about 18 times more air by mass than fuel to maintain a
smoke-free tailpipe.

Smoke-free operation is usually around 22:1 air-to-fuel ratio (AFR)

As additional fuel is added, more air is needed to stay smoke-free

Black smoke indicates we are producing particulate matter by not burning
all the fuel

Even with black smoke, you can still add more fuel to produce more
power, but combustion efficiency goes down

White smoke is extreme over-fueling
Some white smoke is normal during cold start-up

Cylinder temperatures are too low to burn all the fuel, resulting in some
blue and/or white smoke

About 1/3 of that is correct.

Ever heard of EGT measurements?
You'll hit dangerous temperatures with a turbo diesel long before you hit smoke (unless your tune is really bad). Once you're into smoke and still adding fuel your pistons only have seconds to live at full power.

Smoke free can range from as low as 16:1 for a modern engine to some engines which even smoke at idle (80:1).
Stoich is 14.55:1 on a diesel.
Most factory engines run around 20-22:1 under full load.

You'll start to hit unsafe EGT at anything lower than 18:1 with a good intercooler. But with a poor intercooler even 20:1 can be unsafe.

White smoke is not extreme overfuelling. White smoke is incomplete combustion usually from late injection. Blue smoke is oil.

Originally Posted by Dougal

So you think you have 150kw now?
Your new 0-100 time is the same as a 90kw Defender 90 puma?

Calculate average power during that acceleration and get back to us.

Yup, could be. The recordings I made, as stated, were for direct comparisons on the same road, same driving style back to back and then back again. Only thing I changed was the ECU. I didn't excessively slip the clutch and shifted as best I could in a normal and consistent way. Not out to break any records, or break my car, just looking at where any improvements were made. I couldn't give a stuff how many kW its putting out, and I'm not about to try and calculate the aerodynamic and drive line losses in order to find out. I wouldn't even know how much it weighs.

For a 14 year old car to get its spark back and feel comparable to a modern vehicle is good enough for me.

Originally Posted by sjane

Yup, could be. The recordings I made, as stated, were for direct comparisons on the same road, same driving style back to back and then back again. Only thing I changed was the ECU. I didn't excessively slip the clutch and shifted as best I could in a normal and consistent way. Not out to break any records, or break my car, just looking at where any improvements were made. I couldn't give a stuff how many kW its putting out, and I'm not about to try and calculate the aerodynamic and drive line losses in order to find out. I wouldn't even know how much it weighs.

For a 14 year old car to get its spark back and feel comparable to a modern vehicle is good enough for me.

You couldn't give a stuff about how many kw it's putting out. But you're also backing the claims of 50% power improvement.
You really need to pick one, you can't have both.

2.5 ton to 100km/h in 14 seconds is averaging 70kw to the ground.

It's pretty clear you don't have 150kw or anything like 50% more than stock. It's looking like your engine was previously putting out a lot less than stock.

You're not listening. Go back and read.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using AULRO mobile app

Yawn.
Another diesel tuning thread with the same characters putting forth the same arguments/crap.
Plenty of people run Td5 remaps from Alive, Inside, BAS, etc with no dramas whatsoever.
Plenty of people believing marketing hype too
If you want to make the Td5 a respectable performer, get a map from José or Gary or Pete. Fit a decent intercooler, FIT AN EGT GAUGE AND DRIVE TO IT. That will be enough for the average punter.
If you want to start doing silly things, do your research. Don't take anything on face value and gain an understanding of what it is you're attempting to do and how to do it safely. Make sure you're vehicle is at 100% before you start modifying it or you're not going to be able to get an accurate measurement of any performance increase. In fact, you'd be better off fitting that EGT gauge before you start tuning.
However if you take nothing of that away, take this away;
DO NOT buy any 'remap' associated with 4WDA. Chances are it's a booster box, which are both dangerous and a waste of money, seeing as it's just a couple of resistors

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

Yawn.
Another diesel tuning thread with the same characters putting forth the same arguments/crap.
Plenty of people run Td5 remaps from Alive, Inside, BAS, etc with no dramas whatsoever.
Plenty of people believing marketing hype too
If you want to make the Td5 a respectable performer, get a map from José or Gary or Pete. Fit a decent intercooler, FIT AN EGT GAUGE AND DRIVE TO IT. That will be enough for the average punter.
If you want to start doing silly things, do your research. Don't take anything on face value and gain an understanding of what it is you're attempting to do and how to do it safely. Make sure you're vehicle is at 100% before you start modifying it or you're not going to be able to get an accurate measurement of any performance increase. In fact, you'd be better off fitting that EGT gauge before you start tuning.
However if you take nothing of that away, take this away;
DO NOT buy any 'remap' associated with 4WDA. Chances are it's a booster box, which are both dangerous and a waste of money, seeing as it's just a couple of resistors

You do know yawning is contagious. Your post caused a big one.

With a proper tune you don't need to drive to the EGT gauge. It will limit fuelling to safe EGT across the entire range.
The EGT gauge is for setup and troubleshooting should anything change. Boost leaks etc.

Funny, that post wasn't aimed entirely at you.
You state that none of the commercially available tunes for Td5 fit into this category of 'proper'.
Be that as it may, if you buy one and fit an EGT gauge and drive to it, you shouldn't have any problems. Buy a boost gauge too and raise the boost to an appropriate level.
Point is if you don't treat your Td5 like ****, it will handle running a tune.