What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tombie

One word... Stahlbus [emoji41]

Never undo a sump plug ever again, drain direct to a container and no mess!

---

For sure!! (except I got the Femco Clickdrain version)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by trout1105

Yes those would be an easy way to do an oil change But I am not that happy with the idea of it dangling below the sump and hitting something when I am off road.
.....

---

Personally I don't think it's the problem that many would say it is.
If something was to strike the sump plug, most likely it'll damage the sump before ripping out a quick drain plug system.
And theoretically, the track rod and chassis cross member protect it from most objects underneath.

You can get slimline versions(dunno about Stahlbus, but Femco make them) which aren't all that much longer than the standard hex bold head used on the V8 anyhow(TD5 uses an allen head bolt .. so it's flush).
I got the quick click(think garden hose connector) rather than the slimline type. The quick click connector type is so much easier again. But the sump plug on the Tdi is at the rear sump, on an angle, so doesn't dangle.
(and now when I do oil change, the first 4 lt doesn't pour out onto the trackrod sending all the oil ''splashing'' all over my driveway any more!)[thumbsupbig]

Had a package come in while I was at work. [emoji16]

All installed, gonna take her for a drive to the in-laws a little later tonight and adjust the rod length when I get therehttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/06/264.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lyhoon94

Had a package come in while I was at work. [emoji16]

All installed, gonna take her for a drive to the in-laws a little later tonight and adjust the rod length when I get therehttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/06/264.jpg

---

not sure if the pic was taken before you'd finished but you will need to shorten the rod a fair bit as the wastegate is in the open position in that first pic. (of new actuator). Could be a slooow trip to the inlaws.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by discorevy

not sure if the pic was taken before you'd finished but you will need to shorten the rod a fair bit as the wastegate is in the open position in that first pic. (of new actuator). Could be a slooow trip to the inlaws.

---

Thanks discorevy!

Will make sure to do it up before I go[emoji4]

I just got back from Perth towing the boat in a nasty crosswind, A bit over 20l/100km.
The new Mickey Thompson ATZ p3's worked really well on the wet hot mix in Perth But they are pretty noisy compared to the Yokohama Geolander AT's.

FInally after a few months I have put a greasable, with grease nipples front proshaft in the car. I had mislaid some of the new bolts. So I went to Keables in Footscary to buy some. Keables have a $27.50 minimum!! Luckily I bought 4 for $2.00
The car seems quieter and smoother some how. A lack of drive train clunking helps.

So I thought ‘nice sunny day, let’s change the ball joints’. A friend, who’s a LR owner and a toolmaker, made his own hydraulic ball joint removal tool...luckily he loaned it to me!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/06/332.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/06/333.jpg

However...what he said to me was “put the ball joints in the freezer overnight, then heat up the socket until it’s quite hot, then they’ll just slip in”. So I did. The 1st went in easy - it actually fell in it was so easy. With the 2nd however I was getting cocky and didn’t hear it up enough. The lower ball joint got stuck with about 5-10mm to go. Then I spent the next 1.5hrs trying to reconfigure his press to do the job it wasn’t designed for. I won - take that stupid ball joint!

I learnt from the 2nd one and the 3rd & 4th just fell in. Although in punishment the LR gods felt it necessary to well and truely cement them in. I needed to heat them up to get them out. Even the press wouldn’t budge them! Again I won!

Plus, while I was there anyway I replaced the axle oil seals, changed front diff oil and put a new one of these on:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/06/334.jpg

In the end an enjoyable 7 hours spent. Wheel alignment tomorrow.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by John_D2

So I thought ‘nice sunny day, let’s change the ball joints’. A friend, who’s a LR owner and a toolmaker, made his own hydraulic ball joint removal tool...luckily he loaned it to me!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/06/332.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/06/333.jpg

However...what he said to me was “put the ball joints in the freezer overnight, then heat up the socket until it’s quite hot, then they’ll just slip in”. So I did. The 1st went in easy - it actually fell in it was so easy. With the 2nd however I was getting cocky and didn’t hear it up enough. The lower ball joint got stuck with about 5-10mm to go. Then I spent the next 1.5hrs trying to reconfigure his press to do the job it wasn’t designed for. I won - take that stupid ball joint!

I learnt from the 2nd one and the 3rd & 4th just fell in. Although in punishment the LR gods felt it necessary to well and truely cement them in. I needed to heat them up to get them out. Even the press wouldn’t budge them! Again I won!

Plus, while I was there anyway I replaced the axle oil seals, changed front diff oil and put a new one of these on:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/06/334.jpg

In the end an enjoyable 7 hours spent. Wheel alignment tomorrow.

---

Good job well done and now behind you - feels good eh! Did you know that whilst you still have the front end lifted and on stands that you can do the wheel alignment yourself with a tape measure .....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by onebob

Good job well done and now behind you - feels good eh! Did you know that whilst you still have the front end lifted and on stands that you can do the wheel alignment yourself with a tape measure .....

---

No actually I didn’t. Really?

It’s at the tyre shop now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by John_D2

So I thought ‘nice sunny day, let’s change the ball joints’. A friend, who’s a LR owner and a toolmaker, made his own hydraulic ball joint removal tool...luckily he loaned it to me!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/06/332.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/06/333.jpg

However...what he said to me was “put the ball joints in the freezer overnight, then heat up the socket until it’s quite hot, then they’ll just slip in”. So I did. The 1st went in easy - it actually fell in it was so easy. With the 2nd however I was getting cocky and didn’t hear it up enough. The lower ball joint got stuck with about 5-10mm to go. Then I spent the next 1.5hrs trying to reconfigure his press to do the job it wasn’t designed for. I won - take that stupid ball joint!

I learnt from the 2nd one and the 3rd & 4th just fell in. Although in punishment the LR gods felt it necessary to well and truely cement them in. I needed to heat them up to get them out. Even the press wouldn’t budge them! Again I won!

Plus, while I was there anyway I replaced the axle oil seals, changed front diff oil and put a new one of these on:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/06/334.jpg

In the end an enjoyable 7 hours spent. Wheel alignment tomorrow.

---

Nice work John! That Disco will be brand new when you are finished.

I have a couple of engine mounts I don’t want to tackle on my own. I may call out to you for help with...[emoji16]