Had a package come in while I was at work.
All installed, gonna take her for a drive to the in-laws a little later tonight and adjust the rod length when I get there![]()
For sure!! (except I got the Femco Clickdrain version)
Personally I don't think it's the problem that many would say it is.
If something was to strike the sump plug, most likely it'll damage the sump before ripping out a quick drain plug system.
And theoretically, the track rod and chassis cross member protect it from most objects underneath.
You can get slimline versions(dunno about Stahlbus, but Femco make them) which aren't all that much longer than the standard hex bold head used on the V8 anyhow(TD5 uses an allen head bolt .. so it's flush).
I got the quick click(think garden hose connector) rather than the slimline type. The quick click connector type is so much easier again. But the sump plug on the Tdi is at the rear sump, on an angle, so doesn't dangle.
(and now when I do oil change, the first 4 lt doesn't pour out onto the trackrod sending all the oil ''splashing'' all over my driveway any more!)![]()
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Had a package come in while I was at work.
All installed, gonna take her for a drive to the in-laws a little later tonight and adjust the rod length when I get there![]()
I just got back from Perth towing the boat in a nasty crosswind, A bit over 20l/100km.
The new Mickey Thompson ATZ p3's worked really well on the wet hot mix in Perth But they are pretty noisy compared to the Yokohama Geolander AT's.
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
FInally after a few months I have put a greasable, with grease nipples front proshaft in the car. I had mislaid some of the new bolts. So I went to Keables in Footscary to buy some. Keables have a $27.50 minimum!! Luckily I bought 4 for $2.00
The car seems quieter and smoother some how. A lack of drive train clunking helps.
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
So I thought ‘nice sunny day, let’s change the ball joints’. A friend, who’s a LR owner and a toolmaker, made his own hydraulic ball joint removal tool...luckily he loaned it to me!
However...what he said to me was “put the ball joints in the freezer overnight, then heat up the socket until it’s quite hot, then they’ll just slip in”. So I did. The 1st went in easy - it actually fell in it was so easy. With the 2nd however I was getting cocky and didn’t hear it up enough. The lower ball joint got stuck with about 5-10mm to go. Then I spent the next 1.5hrs trying to reconfigure his press to do the job it wasn’t designed for. I won - take that stupid ball joint!
I learnt from the 2nd one and the 3rd & 4th just fell in. Although in punishment the LR gods felt it necessary to well and truely cement them in. I needed to heat them up to get them out. Even the press wouldn’t budge them! Again I won!
Plus, while I was there anyway I replaced the axle oil seals, changed front diff oil and put a new one of these on:
In the end an enjoyable 7 hours spent. Wheel alignment tomorrow.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks