Carefully grind away the peened areas holding the washer on.
Remove washer and fit greased up brass unit.
Place washer back. In my case I then tack welded the washer back and refitted.
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Hi Tombie, Onebob,
I recently had the same problem with my Front LHS D2a window regulator.
Tombie's mention of using a brass roller prompted me to show what I did.
I used a couple of widely available metal discs of the right diameter and suitable thickness, plus a few small washers and a rivet.
"Roller" doesn't actually roll, because the rivet holding it onto the regulator arm is too tight.
But it slides within the channel, just like some other previously-documented solutions (including one with a square slider).
Attached pictures give you some idea.
AndrewMilne
That will get the royalists rolling [emoji6][emoji6][emoji2][emoji2]
Here come the lawyers
Using Coin Designs | Royal Australian Mint
this did for me no problem just had to thin out a bit to fit runner
Rolltrak Convex Delrin Bearing and Threaded Stud Axle Roller
Cheers Mick. This is definitely freshwater - and almost certainly a result of broken plenum cover/bad windscreen seals. Every time it rains I find a new leak somewhere!
I will check the the heater/coolant deal, as I am planning a WA trip (from VIC) in a few months, and would rather not have your experience!
cheers for the advice,
Cal
RHS front window stopped working again - think it's the 3rd in the last couple of years. Probably full of water again!
Replaced the temp sender, the gauge was sitting in the lower part of the range and my EMS was registering normal. Now back to normal.
The car had a cable run from the auxillary battery, up behind the passenger side rear light and into the body behind the trim. This will be fitted off with a ciggy lighter thing to power the new fridge. I'll get a fridge slide and drawers one day.
Charlie got extremely dirty playing in the south west on the long weekend.
Still loving the difference Ashcroft ATBs front and rear make in challenging traction conditions.
Cheers
Steve