Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

I rotated the wheels on the D2a yesterday and found that the bolts on the rear wheel carrier had started to come adrift and had to weld them back on.
Maybe I should check them more often as there is quite a bit of weight hanging off those bolts especially when off road in rough terrain

Took me about 4 or 5 weeks to sort brothers centre dash console.
I think 4 or the 6 lower screws where holding it on the dash, so it rattled and shook like Bill Haley and his mates on any road.
Had to fibreglass a fair bit of it behind the scenes, and my fibreglass skills are proof that I did well not to enter into that industry!
Anyhow, all nice and solid. Hamfisted Previous morons totally busted up the heater box vent slots, so that had to be glued up as well.
Fitted an old but bluetooth Pioneer radio I had from a while ago too, so now handsfree.
Fan for the HVAC was squealing like crazy, so fitted the one of of the spares bomb, only to find that the spares bomb one squealed louder than the one in bros car.
I tested it out of the car first of course and no squealing, but then a few minutes after installing it, it started to squeal at the highest speed.
Plugs are different too, so anyone looking for a late fan into an earlier vehicle, or vice versa, note that the plugs are different.
Anyhow, rebuilt the old squealy one, a bit of grease in strategic spots .. all good.
Then the batteries had been drained a bit too much for 'er to start.
So this morning I starter it up and the brake lights are on all the time. Gave the switch a twiddle and a twist, all good again till they got stuck on again!
Initially panick set it thinking I'd mucked soem wiring up in the tangled mess of wires behind the dash(that I neatened up) .. but I have a spare switch from the spare .. all good again.

Took for a quick spin around the block on the bumpy test track, what a difference the silence makes to how nice this thing drives now.

So woooohooo me .. I now have a fairly decent D2 TD5 to drive around, and he aint getting it back

No more D1? Wlecome to the 'dark' side. Well the more comfortable side.

Originally Posted by Bohica

No more D1? ....

What!? I'm offended
Nah! brother got himself a work ute, and D2 is just taking up space at his place, so leaves at mine now. It is theoretically still his(in his mind), but realistically it's more mine, now than his.

They do drive much nicer than Tdis, not so much the power(I'm not impressed by power), just smoother overall.
Only thing I don't like is the seat base. D1 is better than D2 in this regard. Longer = better under thigh(ie. knee) support and when you have a dicky knee, this can be important.
So I'll use it regularly as the get around town transport device, but on longer drives I'll use old faithful.

Originally Posted by AK83

, but on longer drives I'll use old faithful.

The ride on the D2 is so much smoother. So much so that I turn an the cruise control and let the passenger steer while I have a nap!!

Actually it was Saturday but who's counting?

The unlock solenoid in the drivers door failed over a year ago and I finally got a replacement lock mechanism a couple of weeks ago from Triumph Rover Spares.

I decided it looked pretty easy to fit so I spent Saturday afternoon playing with it.

The hard bit turned out to be that you have to take the retaining bolts out of the window frame and lift that up about 150mm to be able to get the old lock out by sliding it down to the bottom of the door and wriggling it under the bottom of the frame leg. Likewise getting the replacement lock back in.

I did it with the 2 wire legs for the door handle and the lock button still attached to the lock mechanism. I wouldn't do that again.

The lock button wire pops our of its socket on the back side of the lock really easily and it's easy to get it popped back into the new lock.

The door handle one is a bit of a sod though. Turns out that the rectangular, threaded, white nylon clip on the back side of the lock is split and pops open when you apply pressure to the tag on it in the right way, releasing the thread on the bottom of the wire arm. You need to look in there first and note how much thread is exposed above the clip so you can set it back in the same position on the new lock. I ended up having to take the door handle off (you remove the torx-head bolt on the edge of the door then slide the handle forward a little to release it) so I could put the snap-in collett on the top of the wire link back onto the flexible crank handle without breading that, then dropping the other end down to meet the lock and closing the split, threaded, rectangular block around it again (that was a bit of an act but I got it with fingers in the end).

The operation was a success! I can now lock and unlock the door remotely again! Yay!

Originally Posted by GrahamH

The operation was a success! I can now lock and unlock the door remotely again! Yay!

Good work, like mine last Sat I did on 2 doors on the right side. What a job to do them in the night without any assistance. LOL.

Btw, from my tests and work last Sat, if the door lock still response to the signal to lock or unlock (you only can feel its motor "response" by holding it in your hands, or you can hear its internal movement, but you won't see it moves the parts) then more than a chance that the dirt blocked the lock mechanism but nothing wrong. 1 bottle of degreaser might bring that dead lock back to life (which I did get success and then decided to keep both of the replaced locks because both of them still response strongly to the signal).

Trans fluid dump, filter change and refill.

It'll be getting a few more after the cooler fitting coming loose a few weeks back.

I've only done dump and refills for the last three years.

The screen wasn't too bad at all considering it's the first time in 135,000km it's been changed.

The carbon/sludge buildup isn't surprising after running mineral Dex III for most of its life and towing a caravan in the NT for probably 10,000 of those km.
I've been running Penrite ATF FS as soon as I got it back to Canberra with around 112,000km on it.

I didn't take a photo of the magnet, was trying to get it all back together before showers came through but it was probably double its size in a very, very fine metallic paste.

I'm just glad no chunks are present and there's bugger all friction material.