Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

I have installed a better map on the ECU the cat has more grunt. Then I shortened the waste gate rod, max boost is 1.46 Bar, 21.18 psi. Even more grunt. I am guessing that as more air gets into the engine, the throttle input will be decreased to get the same power. This will be good for economy on high way runs. It will also give better economy on suburban driving, after I get back to a soft right foot.

My 03 Manual TD5 one has some funny things with locks since the day I bought it last month (did not know much about the issues until I came home to do more research).

1- Will lock only 4 doors including back door (except the rear right door) with remote (50%)
2- Will lock only 3 doors (except driver door, and rear right door) with central locking switch.
3- Will lock 4 doors including back door (except the rear right door) with key (100%).
4- Will unlock 4 doors including back door (except the rear right door) with key (100%).
5- Will NOT unlock driver door and rear right door with remote.
6- Will NOT unlock driver door and rear right door with central locking switch.


Even today the remote would not lock the doors, and even would not let me open the driver door a few times. So I pull the trigger to do the job because locking and opening driver door from the passenger side is not funny anymore.

(Replacing battery in the remote would not help anything)

So far, I replaced the rear right door motor with one used replacement lock from a wrecker => it fixes the issues on that door. It will work unlock and lock as normal with the remote and central locking button.

Next step is to look at the driver door motor and see how it goes. This is when the funny part of the game starts.
Firstly, opening the driver door only to find out that the door motor seems still responses to the signal with UNLOCK only, however, it would not fully unlock the door, nor showing the lock moving.


Secondly, trying the replacement door lock without luck. It shows the same thing that the replacement door lock seems working but would not response with LOCK signal but only a little response with UNLOCK signal.
Bugger, I thought the replacement part was faulty too because it looked extremely dusty both outside and inside.
No other choices, I opened the replacement door lock plastic cover to learn the mechanism of the lock, then I used 1 bottle of degreaser to clean it thoroughly. You should know that 1 big bottle of degreaser is a lot of degreaser for this small lock. Btw, then it looked a lot nicer.


Tried again, no luck and still no response with LOCK but only a little response with UNLOCK.


So far, I tried to clean it again 3rd time with more degreaser, and free all the moving parts as possible. Then I tried to lock it in the fully locked position and plug the power cord. Voila, it worked. Since I did free all the moving parts, now the reward is that it works with both Lock and Unlock from remote, and same with Central locking button. I decided to add some oil (engine oil) to lubricate all moving mechanism and I can hear it moves smoothly then.


Well, to make it short after getting it working as usual (2 steps locking system) and learnt all the mechanism behind the doors on the right side, now I believe some points:


1. The rear door lock might not be dead since it still responds to the signal. The dust likely blocked its movement.
2. The front door lock might not be dead too since it still responds to the signal. The dust likely blocked its movement.

3. It is very possible to add in an aftermarket keyless entry and alarm remote control (in the future if need) with the conditions:
3.1. Deactivate factory remote and immobiliser.
3.2. All the factory door locks MUST stay as original, only add in the aftermarket kit and components on top of each lock in each door to get the keyless remote and lock working.


So if you have a D2 with similar issues as I had, there is a great chance that you could get it works after spend an hour cleaning the lock with degreaser and oil (try to open its plastic cover to clean it better).

A happy day!

May i ask you if could tell a little bit more about your snorkel? Maybe with pictures?
What did you have to cut? How you got enough space for the tube?
Many thanks for this!

Originally Posted by Kaaaiju

Yeah it's 4inch into an custom airbox, I run td5inside remap and their hybrid turbo with an 3inch exhaust, allisport manifold and Serck intercooler, runs 26psi and it pulls so well and my egts on the freeway this morning around 400 at 110kmph, the snorkel does help I notice I have to use less throttle

Originally Posted by rick130

.....

If I have time in the morning I'll hit it with some etch primer and satin black.
It's a little too blingy in gold passivated zinc.

Alternatively you could play the usual LR waiting game and the engine will make it black for 'ya, and a bit more rustproof as the bonus!

Originally Posted by AK83

Alternatively you could play the usual LR waiting game and the engine will make it black for 'ya, and a bit more rustproof as the bonus!

I don't think I'd be waiting long!

Spent half the day underneath (Tie rod and TRE's, TW driveshaft finally installed and the cross-member dropper installed) and now the auto is hanging between full throttle/max rev changes

Hopefully it's just fluid in a connector or two after the ATF flood from two weeks ago.

No more work for today as it's been teeming with rain for a few hours now.

Leaky was sounding a bit loud and running rough when i got him back from the sister in-law, sure enough missing another nut and a broken stud on the exhaust. Had to move the air-con compressor, one bolt took half an hour to get out with out breaking it (patience) took a bit of thread with it. Drilled a hole in the stud with the manifold in place, bad idea went off centre. Took the whole manifold off then managed to break the easy-out. Had to drill and re-tap the hole as best i could. Think a de-web and bigger studs is on the list! Re-tapped the compressor holes and ran a die over the bolts. So their went my quiet afternoon i had planned.

Originally Posted by rick130

I couldn't be arsed straightening the current one as it needed to come out to be straightened anyway.

If I have time in the morning I'll hit it with some etch primer and satin black.
It's a little too blingy in gold passivated zinc.

Rick, have you passed judgement on these? Looks good!