 Swaggie
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						SubscriberFitted the MAF to Turbo inlet hose that I bought last week and posted pictures of.
Boy was it tight onto the MAF end.
Happy to see no oil in the turbo inlet at all, as the catch can seems to be effective.
I broke the plastic spider web in the turbo side of the MAF trying to fit the pipe onto to MAF, but it seems to make no difference. The mesh on the inlet side is to align the air but the other one looks to be to keep mice out.
The oil mist pipe from the rocker cover fits really well .
The clue is to fit the pipe to teh MAF with it off the car then push onto the turbo then fit the MAF to the air cleaner.
Regards PhilipA
 Swaggie
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						SubscriberYes, not realising that it would be so tight, I also roughed up the inside with sandpaper to stop any slippage.When battling to fit a hose over a fitting - Water Based Lubricant is your best friend.
Cheers
BUT the real problem was that it was so tight that the edge of the hose folded under. ( on the side opposite to that which had started)
So I then sliced a lead in on the edge which helped it to start.
I also used a little lube.
Regards PhilipA
In Stanley Sate Forest along Jenkins Track and Point Track. Steep enough down to use HDC in first. Not thinking about the brakes gives more time to steer. Going up in first, low range I had a fair bit of wheel slippage. The TC light came on, went off , came on a gain and repeat. A slightly aggressive throttle to keep the momentum up and to ensure the the TC does its thing. It was a good drive and the blackberries a definite bonus.
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
Today I replaced the viscous fan hub bearing. Pressing the shaft into the new bearing was less of a drama than I expected. Had the shaft in the freezer at minus 20degC for around 30 minutes whilst the bearing was at ambient temperature of 25degC. It required firm consistent application of force but the shop press was not as challenged as it was pushing the shaft out of the old bearing...

LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Replaced my you-beaut slotted front rotors due to vibrations when braking( yes I got them smelly)
I put on a set of the cheapest rotors I could find, which were repco ones,
vibration when braking worse! after consulting GOD in Tassie I'm gunna replace the rears
the only other thing that makes any sense( though not much--) is the abs pulsing, which the car does, when braking softly at low speeds you can feel it pulse/grab and release through the seat of your pants..
no amigoes.
any thoughts?
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Have you given the DHD a decent workout?
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
 ChatterBox
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
						Subscriber
Jack the wheels off the ground , press the brake pedal , then , starting at one wheel turn it while feeling / listening to the rotor running through the pads , repeat until you find the one/s with intermittent resistance / sound.
The hub behind the face of the disc must be clean when fitting new rotors and you must replace the pads as well . Seized caliper slides can cause vibration as well.
Rick has alluded to the fact that a vibe felt through the steering is usually fronts while pulsing through the car or brake pedal while steering still smooth usually points to rears
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterFinished replacing the main two fuel lines after I hamfistedly snapped off a connector replacing the green pipe. Not too complicated if it's up on a hoist (if you can't borrow one then hire one, it would suck to do with jackstands or ramps). If you're gonna do it mark up the clip locations on the chassis rail. Not sure how the book says to do it but found it easiest to loosen the back right hand chassis mount and lift that corner up to get the last bit of the line to the fuel filter attached.
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