Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by shack

John,

I have been running a setup that keeps the end connector and hose, but loses the swage, I cut the part of the swage off where I wanted to put the hose clamp, and simply put a good quality hose clamp on.

I'm running plenty of pressure and have been for a fair while, still hasn't come off.

In fact I'd be willing to suggest that there are plenty of discovery 2s belonging to owners on this forum, that I could pull the hose out of the swage with my bare hands, that haven't blown off yet.

I bet no one can pull the hose off that I clamped on with a hose clamp though.

Cheers

IMG_20230201_204234.jpg IMG_20230201_204244.jpg I did notice the hose to hardline end had moved away from the shoulder when I was doing the trans install but it was not moving by tugging so left it as is but at least knew I had another thing on the todo list. The quick connect end however moves reasonably freely and only picked that up when removing the radiator cluster the other night.

Neither end has been leaking.

Quite frankly a new piece of hose and clamps has always been my answer to these problems but the numerous write ups of higher pressure in the lines than other vehicles resulting in the hose/clamp setup slipping off and some vids of split lines got me worried a bit hence chasing up a more solid fix.

Think I just need to grab my balls in my hands and go back to just being me, last few weeks too little sleep stressing over this money pit and too much reading others opinions and ignoring my own experience and knowledge.

Has anyone out there actually measured the pressure in the lines ?

Shack did you use the same hose (kinda sounds like it) and just cut the crimps/swage off or replace it ?

I really wanted to just buy some 1/2 inch braided hose and hose clamps off that Pirtek guy and the bugger just kept being negative about the success of the repair using just hose clamps so I politely finished up and left very disappointed and empty handed.

Originally Posted by Kaaaiju

I have changed 5 HB for people 10min tops

Use the starter motor to crack the bolt, take the seal out and use my special tool to set the correct depth for the seal in the timing case and use flywheel locking pin to torque it up to 460nm

not sure why people struggle to undo the bolt by hand, use the starter motor without the fuel pump relay!!

Hey that's how I undo them bolts !

My balancer has a wee bit of movement but not enough for front bit to shatter itself apart I don't think (that means it will let go soon as I get past latest issues) but I was worried about using the locking pin to torque back up but now I know all good. Nothing like been there done that practical advice.

What locking pin?!?

Originally Posted by DiscoDiscoMan

What locking pin?!?

In the flywheel!

Originally Posted by johnp38

Has anyone out there actually measured the pressure in the lines ?

Shack did you use the same hose (kinda sounds like it) and just cut the crimps/swage off or replace it ?

I haven't measured the pressure, but I can tell you that the construction of the cooler itself would suggest it's not that high.

On the pic I posted it's the original hose, on another one I've done it was high pressure chemical resistant hose...i.e. oil, petrol etc..

That was years ago, maybe 5.

Originally Posted by Kaaaiju

I have changed 5 HB for people 10min tops

Use the starter motor to crack the bolt, take the seal out and use my special tool to set the correct depth for the seal in the timing case and use flywheel locking pin to torque it up to 460nm

not sure why people struggle to undo the bolt by hand, use the starter motor without the fuel pump relay!!

They do not have a long enough breaker bar!

Originally Posted by Bohica

They do not have a long enough breaker bar!

I use old buggered torque wrenches, they always reach a spot on the rails somewhere, or down against the shed floor, but I make sure it is firmly up against the chassis or floor before powering the starter.

Otherwise nice bang and damage as the breaker bar gets swung hard by the starter.

Thankfully never had to learn that the hard way !

Originally Posted by Kaaaiju

not sure why people struggle to undo the bolt by hand, use the starter motor without the fuel pump relay!!

I have used this process a number of times on other engines. It failed to undo the crank pulley bolt on my 300 Tdi D1. It was that bolt that began my journey with expensive red cordless tools... Nothing would undo it until, after agonising over the cost, I bought an 18v brushless 3/4 drive impact gun, which undid it in seconds. There's only just enough room..... I doubt there is on the TD5 D2, so 🫰