Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by Bluetoes

Can we see some pics and are you going to cut the rear quarter panel?

Once finished I will take a couple of pics. Still a long way off of completion. No will not be cutting the guards, but is designed to protect them.

Originally Posted by Bohica

Mainly because the front prop shaft is out and the car will stay on the black stuff.

What grease do I use on the uni joint bearings when I replace the double cardon bearings. Is there a spec for this?

Thanks

Julian

The actual spec is an NLGI2 lithium soap grease, but I prefer a calcium sulphonate complex grease as it resists water washout better, and my favourite is CAT Desert Gold which is perfect for sliding splines, tie rod ends, etc too.
It has 5% moly which generally isn't recommended for rolling element bearings but CAT use a platelet size that works fine with rollers.

I used good old Castrol LMM for near twenty years and never had an issue with a uni or wore a tie rod end out either that was regularly greased.

I believe,,,

this is the first time I've read about a spec for the two drive shafts/unis/carden..

Originally Posted by Bohica

I haven't stuffed the nuts. It's standard practice to use new nuts and bolts on this item, or have I got that wrong? I have a pair of 9/16 spanners. It is the multitude of different imperial sizes that gives me the irrites. The metric system is a whole lot more simpler.

Except there’s Fine and Course metric..
Then in hydraulics there’s German, Japanese, Italian and English standards plus ISO.

Much metric gear is based loosely on Imperial sizing..

19mm, 13mm etc

It doesn’t take long to nail it.

Originally Posted by Bohica

I haven't stuffed the nuts. It's standard practice to use new nuts and bolts on this item, or have I got that wrong? I have a pair of 9/16 spanners. It is the multitude of different imperial sizes that gives me the irrites. The metric system is a whole lot more simpler.

no,, ALWAYS use new nyloks,,,

Originally Posted by donh54

Haven't had the dubious pleasure myself, but apparently the trick is removal of battery, ecu, and battery/jack tray first. Good luck, and report back

No need to remove all that crap. Have a look here https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery...st1258438.html

A few weeks ago we found brothers TD5 had worn balljoints, which probably caused a 'driveline' vibe that had particular characteristics.
bj's done, vibe kind'a got worse.
Yesterday replaced his front prop with the one out of my spare.
turns out that the front output shaft bearing is shot, and flange had a mil of looseness.
temporary prop changed the vibe, but obviously now it needs front bearing replaced.

How much wear on the splines is 'acceptable'.
The shaft from my spare D2, has zero slack in the splines. compressed or extended, it has no slack.
On his TD5's shaft, there is about 1/4 millimeter of rotational play, but only at full extension none when the shaft is 'at rest'.
The concertina gaiter that covers the splines acts like a spring and gives the shaft a 'resting' position.
Compress to shorten it, pull to lengthen it, it comes back to it's resting position.

One of the other items on the list of annoying stuff to fix on his, was the irritatingly excruciating tank fill time.
Could take 20-30mins(seriously) to fill the tank if it was drained to a low point. a half fill(about 40-something) litres would take 10-15mins.
Diesel had to be pumped carefully and slowly due to the pumps auto shutoff.
So we planned to pull the tank, check all the lines for blockages/kinks etc .. even replace the filler neck in case it was deformed or something.

got the main hose off, the grommet at the top of the filler neck was badly cracked(just old) so we thought may as well change that(bad move!) but in the end was the right call.
Some numpty! previous owner had obviously tried to fill the tank via a jerry and had dropped a small black fuel can filler neck into the main neck. It got lodged at the bottom bend, causing a large enough blockage to stop the fuel flow.
Brother texted me from the servo, excited that the first time since he's had the TD5 .. only took 2 mins to fill it from 1/4 to full!

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

I believe,,,

this is the first time I've read about a spec for the two drive shafts/unis/carden..

No 'puter and hence RAVE handy atm as out and about but pretty sure that was the spec.
E&OE

It's usually either an NLGI 1.5 or 2 Li complex grease.

Most manufacturers spec that for chassis stuff.
Lithium has good load carrying capabilities.

Aluminium complex is a step up from lithium in terms of water resistance, but Calcium Sulphonate trounces them all for water/rust resistance and is comparable to Lithium in load carrying ability.

IIRC it's actually slightly lower on the load carrying scale but that's easily overcome with base oils and additives.

Good marine bearing greases are calcium sulphonate complexes, as are all of CAT's chassis/bearing greases.