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Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

  1. 30th September 2020, 07:34 AM #6401
    discorevy
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    Quote Originally Posted by James NZ View Post
    Was leaving to go to work, opened the gate said hi to the road repair crew who were having a meeting right outside our place and then moved the disco forward. Jumped out to close the gate, get back into the car, select drive expecting to drive off and the thing gave a death rattle and died. Of course the road crew gave me that look so I made a nervous joke about stalling an auto but it wouldn't restart. On the third attempt it sounded like it hydrauliced?? The road crew gave me a hand to push it up the slight incline onto the property. Took the wife's car to work.
    When I got home (rather late) the Nannocom gave these faults -

    Motor faults
    (3,7) Air flow circuit, logged high
    (22,1) Road speed missing (logged)

    Auto box faults
    Code P1884 Can message MD_IND Invalid (Flag F_TL_Mes)
    Code P1843 Can Timeout Monitoring
    Code P1842 Can Level Monitoring

    The M&S lights were also flashing. I then cleared all codes and out of curiosity tried to start it which it did, rattled for a bit then died, again! Tried to start it again but the starter motor sounded like it was really straining to turn it over.

    Rechecked for faults and this is the only one which popped up -

    Code P0705 Position Switch Monitoring.

    The car is used daily and has been going well. Water level is the same as usual. Starter motor is newish. We are suppose to be going away in it tomorrow, looks like it will be the wifes Honda Jazz to the rescue, sigh!

    I'm going to start googling the codes but if anyone wants to chime in I'd appreciate it.

    Cheers, James NZ

    With those trans faults I'm hoping the Input shaft seals haven't let go ( this can cause 'A' clutch problems giving those symptoms) , what was your engine oil level?
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  2. 30th September 2020, 09:15 AM #6402
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    Tombie
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    Quote Originally Posted by lewy View Post
    had both the low water alarm followed shortly by the overheat alarm[104 deg] attached to the head go off in quick succession because of that bloody small rad hose hose blowing,the standard temp gauge as usual didn't move off normal,anyone who dosn't fit these aftermarket guages is bloody mad or rich or both.
    Don’t feel bad, no standard temp gauge would have moved - they only work when immersed in coolant - catastrophic loss dumps it too fast to react.

    Loss sensors are the only way to go for catastrophic detection as you observed.
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  3. 30th September 2020, 09:16 AM #6403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Headroom 2.3m View Post
    I recently bought one of these Unilug battery terminals from $$ARB but available on Fleabay . Really solid and well made. The secondary SAE lug is removable so you can have two M8 studs with multiple cables on each. They are 28mm high with cover on.
    That’s what I run.
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  4. 30th September 2020, 11:55 AM #6404
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwb View Post
    Replaced the ABS shuttle valve unit. No more amigos.
    Spoke too soon. They're back!
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  5. 30th September 2020, 01:12 PM #6405
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    Bohica
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwb View Post
    Spoke too soon. They're back!
    What does the Nanocom say? This time?
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
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    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
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  6. 30th September 2020, 05:45 PM #6406
    James NZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    With those trans faults I'm hoping the Input shaft seals haven't let go ( this can cause 'A' clutch problems giving those symptoms) , what was your engine oil level?
    Would it be leaking auto fluid if the input seals have let go, or does the box have to come out for inspection? The oil level is on the top mark and hasn't moved since a recent service.

    I'm going to start a new thread as there seems to be a bigger problem.
    Thanks for you help.

    James NZ
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  7. 30th September 2020, 05:47 PM #6407
    James NZ
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    Re my post about my disco suddenly stopping on Monday morning. I'm going to start a new thread as there seems to be a bigger problem.

    I've cleaned the Red plug, it wasn't that bad. Thanks for the help so far.

    Cheers, James NZ
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  8. 1st October 2020, 01:34 PM #6408
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    3 amigos again

    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    What does the Nanocom say? This time?

    Well, RR sensor fault which I cleared. I've had that one before so will check/clean the connections. I've got plug in extensions on the rears.
    Here's hoping.
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    2002 D2 Td5 ES- gone but still running elsewhere
    2013 D4 SDV6 HSE - gone
    2023 Defender 110SE D300
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  9. 1st October 2020, 02:29 PM #6409
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwb View Post
    Well, RR sensor fault which I cleared. I've had that one before so will check/clean the connections. I've got plug in extensions on the rears.
    Here's hoping.
    Nanocom had shuttle valve? You fixed that. Now RR sensor. Bummer.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410
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  10. 1st October 2020, 02:38 PM #6410
    PhilipA
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    I replaced the Rear pinion seal today.

    pretty easy and took about an hour.

    The biggest worry was removing the doughnut guide but I have a 51MM? socket for my RRC hubs and a 8x1.25MM bolt (normal HT bolt x40Mm) and the rattle gun got it straight out.

    Only other thing is that the seal goes in a fair way to miss the splash shield. I actually found a hack by winding in the bolt in the diff yoke , but found it still rubbed so drove the old seal in on top of the new seal , then removed the old seal.
    Regards PhilipA
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