Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

The Ashcroft ATB arrived this morning and whilst adjusting it to the differential, the BIL was having trouble getting it to stay in the range, then figured he had the metric gauge and not the imperial one... The front diff is now to a much too tight tolerance and has to come out again and be readjusted. Lucky there was a delay in the diff fluid being delivered at least. Getting good at this hub, brake and axle removal now. Pity its the front one with the Ashcroft CV joint having to be undone and reinstalled.

As an aside was great to put the rear axle and SLS on the ground, ahhh love the sound of a compressor pumping hard and watching the rear end rising, although we did find a leak in the connector within the Compressor block. Checked out the filter behind the rear light cluster and the foam pad within was totally and I mean totally gone. Just touching it and it broke up into dust. The whole cavity was filled with red dust, so thinking will try and put some foam down the bottom of the panel gap and try and minimize the amount of dust getting up behind the lights and obviously into the filter.

Figured out as well with the back door how to put a bench there, Had the thought to have a swing down bench but want to keep the rear seats and subs as well`. Hope this makes sense``

Have a couple of short flexi double slot wall strips and the arms to attach

Have slotted the sub case and the underlying speaker holder so the wall strip can be attached vertically
20210906_201821.jpg

This is the type of attachment when finished, the board will have the strut permanently attached so will be stored with it (I am using one about 1.2 metres long)
5a390784-c895-4db4-89da-e5416c1d5cc5.jpeg

The cuts are simple

20210906_202023.jpg20210906_201906.jpg20210906_201848.jpg


The other short flexi double slot will come up out of the tool holder on the back door so no cutting needed. Figure it will be just as quick as the pull down variety and yet still maintain the functionality of being able to open the door from the inside. My kitchen implements will be in a tool holder / case bolted to the top left of the door, all neat and practical.

Originally Posted by RRT

The Ashcroft ATB arrived this morning and whilst adjusting it to the differential, the BIL was having trouble getting it to stay in the range, then figured he had the metric gauge and not the imperial one... The front diff is now to a much too tight tolerance and has to come out again and be readjusted. Lucky there was a delay in the diff fluid being delivered at least. Getting good at this hub, brake and axle removal now. Pity its the front one with the Ashcroft CV joint having to be undone and reinstalled.

As an aside was great to put the rear axle and SLS on the ground, ahhh love the sound of a compressor pumping hard and watching the rear end rising, although we did find a leak in the connector within the Compressor block. Checked out the filter behind the rear light cluster and the foam pad within was totally and I mean totally gone. Just touching it and it broke up into dust. The whole cavity was filled with red dust, so thinking will try and put some foam down the bottom of the panel gap and try and minimize the amount of dust getting up behind the lights and obviously into the filter.

Figured out as well with the back door how to put a bench there, Had the thought to have a swing down bench but want to keep the rear seats and subs as well`. Hope this makes sense``

Have a couple of short flexi double slot wall strips and the arms to attach

Have slotted the sub case and the underlying speaker holder so the wall strip can be attached vertically
20210906_201821.jpg

This is the type of attachment when finished, the board will have the strut permanently attached so will be stored with it (I am using one about 1.2 metres long)
5a390784-c895-4db4-89da-e5416c1d5cc5.jpeg

The cuts are simple

20210906_202023.jpg20210906_201906.jpg20210906_201848.jpg


The other short flexi double slot will come up out of the tool holder on the back door so no cutting needed. Figure it will be just as quick as the pull down variety and yet still maintain the functionality of being able to open the door from the inside. My kitchen implements will be in a tool holder / case bolted to the top left of the door, all neat and practical.

Don't forget that with a D2, the rear door opens on an angle if you want the shelf or whatever to be horizontal when the door is open - and don't ask me how I know!

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Don't forget that with a D2, the rear door opens on an angle if you want the shelf or whatever to be horizontal when the door is open - and don't ask me how I know!

Thanks Gavin, will take this into account when fitting the second slotted bar in the tool holder.

Pretty simple to adjust the angle by lifting or dropping the second slotted arm before securing -as I am seeing it in my minds eye the left double slotted bar will be fitted a bit lower, around an Inch and maybe a spacer pack on the lower attachment points to get a slight angle backwards?


OH my GIDDY AUNT, just spent some time looking for a replacement filter for the SLS, seems they only sell you a complete hose, holder and filter, not the foam and pad. At over $100 and up to $150 would have to be the most overpriced part in the Land Rover catalogue. Any ideas on where to source some open link foam to cut round and stuff back in? The pad can easily be washed and even oiled for better protection but the foam once I have a supply will be a regular service item.

If you have time it’s much better to extend the SLS compressor inlet line from behind the rear tail light to inside the cabin so it’s away from dust inlet completely.

Did mine 10 years ago and not touched since!

Originally Posted by simonmelb

If you have time it’s much better to extend the SLS compressor inlet line from behind the rear tail light to inside the cabin so it’s away from dust inlet completely.

Did mine 10 years ago and not touched since!

Think you are right, an hour trying to find appropriate filter medium for current location has not given me hope, internally a lighter filter medium would easily be suitable. As I see it, cut the current tube to feed through the wall, reconnect and easy to check and change / clean filter medium, thanks!

Originally Posted by RRT

Think you are right, an hour trying to find appropriate filter medium for current location has not given me hope, internally a lighter filter medium would easily be suitable. As I see it, cut the current tube to feed through the wall, reconnect and easy to check and change / clean filter medium, thanks!

An adapter and a compressor air inlet would work as a replacement.

fitted C6100 speedo corrector.



needed 7% ratio change. now spot on.

I tried 15% to display higher on the speedo than actual hoping it would make the auto change up earlier in 2nd and lockup TC earlier, but doesn't make any difference to how the auto works
So settled on getting speedo accurate to road speed.

I read that changing to an auto ECU will make the Td5 auto work more like a v8 auto, so this will be my next 'mod' .. unless anyone knows that this doesn't work.

Auxillary trans cooler fitment and trans service being carried out as we speak.