Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by AK83

Mine runs perfectly now(considering the mapped ECU) around town .. gear changes and TC lockup.
But at highway speeds, it's far too eager to unlock the TC say from about 80k/h and over on the almost nonexistant rises that constitute an overpass on the freeway.
More so using cruise control, and minimised a little using the good old foot method. For now, just getting to work .. I use cruise on the flat sections, disengage when coming to an overpass, then either hold pedal as accurately steady(no loss in speed) or ease off a touch(maybe lose 1k/h) .. and no worries.
The CC is really aggressive in it's operation tho.

With the TD5 TCU, on the highway it ran nicely, except lockup at about 85k/h. Annoying with all the roadworks and speed cameras around Melb at the moment.
So now with the V8 TCU it'll lockup easily at a steady 70k/h(nice) and torque it more than enough to drive with such low revs. Up to 80k/h with the TD5 TCU felt too fussy ..

On a drive down the 80k/h section on the Westgate fwy, up to 80k/h with the V8 TCU feels 'normal' with foot work, or cruise tho. She seems to stay locked with more pedal input than at over 80k/h(more like over 90).

On the Ringroad which is 100k/h .. using cruise, not only will it unlock(at 100k/h) over the insignificant overpass rises .. it'll kick down into 3rd too .. so she's screaming her head off at 3500 or whatever .. for nothing!

These insignificant overpasses I speak of really are nothing .. maybe 5m in 500m or something. Our underpowered overloaded trucks can maintain 100k/h over them .. hence why annoying.

I'll do some checking today and reply back.

I have been following this thread with interest - are you running standard size tyres?

OK, I figured it out. Can't explain why it got set this way.

Nanocom revealed that the BCU setting was set to manual trans and petrol fuel. I think these settings were under instrument pack.
Why set like this .... ????
The other thing that stopped working was the S(sport) lamp on the dash. Sport mode still worked, and made an already sensitive trans .. more sensitive!

All this has been rectified. maybe the switch to the new Trans ECU confused the BCU? Anyhow all settings changed and all that stuff works as per normal.
No change to the lockup/kickdown sensitivity on the highway.

Philip .. I changed the trans ECU from the TD5 one that is in the vehicle(that is, if it was a TD5 ECU to begin with .. lots of anomalies with this vehicle!) .. to one out of my V8 parts car.
The v8 TCU locks up earlier.
Note I have a D2 v8 project car with dead motor .. part v8 is for this rebuild.
I'd driven the v8 and they change up earlier and lockup earlier. For a tuned Td5 makes it a good upgrade to make use of the extra low down torque.
I've listed the speeds at which changes and lockups happen .. 'tis much nicer to drive around town now
Speedo is accurate(now) C6100 installed a few weeks ago. Tyres are 245/75 16's .. and was out by -7% .. so was showing too low and easy for someone to get a speeding fine if not aware o fit .. like my brothers son!
This TD5 I now have is my brothers .. so it's history with 'me' is known only for the past 6 years or so now.

Previous owners have 'vandalised it' .. so many stuff ups some already listed previously.
But now, trying to figure out this Trans ECU stuff, I found that body, BCU and ECU all have different VIN numbers. Not that it stops the D2 from driving, just annoying having to find this out, and that there are 3 VIN numbers and not obvious to find when looking.

ECU VIN according to nanocom is read only .. fair enough. But BCU appears to be re writeable(in that you can change it on the nanocom) .. I just can't get it to stick tho(in the BCU).
it only holds the updated VIN data for that session. Once nanocom is shut down and restarted, it reverts back to the VIN already programmed into it. it seems that it's a YA('00) model BCU. This D2 is a March '02 build date. (2A ... VIN)
So either a bug in nanocom or it's not reprogrammable but nanocom just has this weird anomaly in it.

In my Nanocom it just has a "synchronise BCU' option which I did but for a TD5 auto ECU and BCU I assume same year or series up to 2001, and it took about a second.
You certainly have a bitsa.

Regards PhilipA

Originally Posted by PhilipA

....
You certainly have a bitsa.

Regards PhilipA

Yeah, finding out the hard way.

I'm pretty sure I tried the sync already .. can't remember.
Anyhow.. todays time was spent trying to repad the driver seat.

I had some foam to prop up the collapsed seat base, but couldn't get it right. Didnt' feel right too.
The 'diaphragm' springy/wire thing that holds the foam up(similar to the D1/RRC rubber seat base, but is a wire thing) .. is fine. Not collapsed.
The plastic trim bits that clip under the seat frame are snapped up front so seat pad is loosey goosey.

In the end all I needed was to prop up the base a touch so I'm not sitting in a bucket feeling, and a bit higher, and to secure the front edge fabric to the seat.
D2 driving posi isn't as comfy as the D1 is .. D1 seat slides back more.

I had a sheet of marine like carpet which worked well folded a few times to give me the padding height ...
For securing the front trim down, I used a few self drilling roofing screws(with washers for more clamping) into the snapped plastic retainer and into the base.

Looks ugly in terms of trimming, but feels a bit better sitting higher up now .. so hoping the bung right knee won't ache as much driving this thing now.
The added height offsets the shorter leg room(compared to the D1)
Amazing how comfy the seats are(can be) tho. I sat in the front pass seat and is awesome by comparison.

And to finish up for the day, some ECU fiddling was finally done to help with the overly sensitive kickdown and unlocking action of the torque converter.

More working today and what a day of discovery it was. Found out last night left guide for the timing chain had broken at the top edge and was well grooved. Replacement needed.

As part of this took the front off the engine and the harmonic balancer (had a replacement anyway) and again what a strange sight, missing ball bearings in the bearing... The bearing on the fan pully was also a bit noisy so this will be changed out as well - difficult to pull this out by the way.

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Great to note that when the head was changed the welsh plugs have also been changed, no need for replacement - would be easy to have done them by the way with everything out the way.
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Then time to look at the EWP placement, would appear that the power steering has a little leak as the underside of the out pipe and thermostat were rich in oil.
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Sits pretty well resting on the Power Steering away from danger, a smaller EWP would probably fit better but wanted the max flow possible. The pipe for the thermostat to the engine has been used to connect to the EWP to radiator and will have to source another pipe to the engine pipe but it points relatively straight at it as it stands.

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The onto further up the wet chain an for all the good work that had been undertaken, it was obvious where the corners had been cut.... What a ridiculous amount of work to get to the waterpump, and placement of the bolts did not make me praise the Lord, should have done this before the lift...
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This will not be reused, had been looking to but the facing was pitted and just about to start leaking. Have a replacement that will have the impellor removed to spin aimlessly and not impede the flow of the EWP.


Ohh this morning, finished off the wrap of the manifold, did the five and then went back and did the first one again. Confident it will hold AND more importantly, be effective.

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RRT, your post reminds me of when we did the waterpump on my brothers(now my) TD5. Damned painful pump to remove without dismantling the entire engine!(well nearly).

Nuts and bolts sometimes I don't mind in awkward spaces.. don't like them there, but what can you do .. you find a tool or make one up to suit. But remove the old pump out between the bit here and bit there.
Took half of forever, and a slight twist of the pump in one specific direction whilst oriented in an exact angular position to the southern cross(with the angle of the salivating tongue just in the exact spot it needed to be) .. and bingo! it came out.

Then the worry of getting the new one in ..
Weirdly tho .. the new one went in with zero drama. No praying to the 'great hydro deity', no specific angle of the tongue .. just went in no fuss. Couldn't' believe it! Question was .. why?

Turned out that the new waterpump was about 2mm shorter in one dimension, which made it go into and out of the location with no issue.

What a ridiculous amount of work to get to the waterpump, and placement of the bolts did not make me praise the Lord, should have done this before the lift...
Attachment 173921

It's much easier to remove the power steering bracket and work from the front.

Move compressor
undo water pump pulley
undo water pump and move to side
see hidden bolt inside.
remove the bolts that hold bracket.
Only bad one is middle back and OK with 3/8 socket and wobble bar.

The bad news is that there is an oring between the bracket and block that should be replaced or will start to leak , especially in an engine like that with no coolant for a long time.
Regards PhilipA

Originally Posted by AK83

RRT, your post reminds me of when we did the waterpump on my brothers(now my) TD5. Damned painful pump to remove without dismantling the entire engine!(well nearly).

Nuts and bolts sometimes I don't mind in awkward spaces.. don't like them there, but what can you do .. you find a tool or make one up to suit. But remove the old pump out between the bit here and bit there.
Took half of forever, and a slight twist of the pump in one specific direction whilst oriented in an exact angular position to the southern cross(with the angle of the salivating tongue just in the exact spot it needed to be) .. and bingo! it came out.

Then the worry of getting the new one in ..
Weirdly tho .. the new one went in with zero drama. No praying to the 'great hydro deity', no specific angle of the tongue .. just went in no fuss. Couldn't' believe it! Question was .. why?

Turned out that the new waterpump was about 2mm shorter in one dimension, which made it go into and out of the location with no issue.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

It's much easier to remove the power steering bracket and work from the front.

Move compressor
undo water pump pulley
undo water pump and move to side
see hidden bolt inside.
remove the bolts that hold bracket.
Only bad one is middle back and OK with 3/8 socket and wobble bar.

The bad news is that there is an oring between the bracket and block that should be replaced or will start to leak , especially in an engine like that with no coolant for a long time.
Regards PhilipA

As we had the front of the engine off in preparation for the timing chain guide, as well as the air con to the side etc. looked at taking the power steering pump off, but also doing the centrifugal and filter as well went that route.

Ohh also forgot to mention that the fuel gauze filter in the side of the block was missing... had the o ring but no filter. First price I found -ONE HUNDRED AND NINETY FIVE DOLLARS for some flywire shaped into a small cigarette - &*)@(%!@#%)(&!! Worse the Turner head I got also had it missing.

How important is it or is there a way to incorporate a filter???