Finished off the head studs, today fun job![]()
OK , I have not done a TD5 but have done a V8.
The studs should have a hex socket in the top.
You should fit the head onto the locators, then screw down the studs and torque them to the nominated Lbs ft.
If there is no torque specified then they should be AFAIR about 20Lbs ft, ie not too tight
Then you fit the nuts and torque up and angle according to the directions.
if you had room then the studs could be fitted first but that would probably be unusual.
Regards PhilipA
I don't think I would fit studs without new head gaskets .
I would think studs are not torque to yield on landys any more than they are on other cars (feel free to correct and teach), so what are the torque values like for a td5 to hold that pressure in?
The way the block is designed with the fasteners pulling from lower down than the face is actually very smart in keeping more even pressure on the mating faces , I used to chamfer the holden/ford blocks out around the threads to reduce the pull up stress around the bolt holes ( them US car magazines were very technical in the 80 's, I still have technical books on turbo charging that are relevant today)
What I would like is a set of replacement head bolts that were not torque to yield and just 3 to 5 stages torqueing down to a value instead.
I held the bonnet up tied to the carport roof so I could walk from one side to the other in a continuous motion with a long bar and it really really made me hate engineers (ok I have issues with them regardless).
You put the studs in screw them in and then torque them 30nm,65nm and 125nm and your done
Took the disco for a drive with the new Alive GTB 550 and wow, it a little laggy down low but from 1800-2300rpm it goes from 18 to 35psi in a second and just rips and pulls all the way to the end, just amazing middle and high end power and it's on the lowest tune at 550nm
Look forward to see some video footage of it at full noise.What tune are you running with it?
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