YarnMaster
SubscriberI changed the engine oil, and the oil filters, even the full flow one. At $15.00 for a genuine one not an issue. It may be over kill but who cares. I need the car ramps to stand on to get into the engine bay to remove the full flow filter. As I have a knackered sump plug, I pumped the oil out the dipstick hole. Then I over filled and had to pump some out.
I also changed the rear diff oil and did the silly thing and drained the oil first, this was a bit tricky as the drain plug has a few out of square parts. I hope the diff guard will keep it safe. I gently hammered in a 1/2 inch wobble extension, this did the trick. It was harder to remove the fill plug and I got nervous, the diff is empty. The fill plug came out, ad then I remembered that my transfer pump had not arrived. I filled the diff using the oil bottle with its hose. not as god as the pump and I spilled too much oil.
While I was under the car, I change the fuel filter, I partly filled the new filter and screwed it in. Purging the air was easy. Ignition on, you can hear the pump and bubbles in the fuel line(s) The noise changes to the sound of small bubbles, then stops. The pump turns off. Turn the key to start the engine and of course the engine starts.
Next weekend it is the rest of the drive train.
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
Master
Puncture. First one in a long time, maybe on this set of tyres. Problem... wheels won't come off. Yes, I have removed the nuts/ lugs whatever. Rear wheel, was hoping to get a crowbar in and scare it off, but only the disc or calliper to lever against, so I didn't. Any suggestions please?
OldBushie
Put bolts back on loosely. Drive forwards and backwards in a slight arcOriginally Posted by Tinggu
Master
Thanks Tombie, that's a terrific suggestion. Might not be good for the tyre but might not be worth a repair anyway.
Thanks!
OldBushie
Only needs a few feet either way.
And you can shake the vehicle sideways by hand if you like.
Last edited by Tombie; 31st January 2022 at 12:26 AM.
Wizard
SupporterSorry for the late reply,
re the the 24 > 26psi I had settled on - it was no aftermarket Chra, it was just the factory fit Garrett GT2052S. I saw higher figures (28 > 32) for no performance gain when initially playing with the boost controller but I sorta feel that it must be exceeding the design performance threshold of the turbo because the only noticeable result was higher temps. Perhaps due to the turbine vanes just “beating up” the air…. Someone else on here will know cos I am definitely no expert on turbos. My figures are gauge pressure via an analog VDO gauge.
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Master
Tombie I'd love buy you a beer for that extremely helpful hint. It took a few goes, not helped with the driveway being soft after 12" rain last week and the jack and its blocks squishing into the ground. And putting a board in raises the jack which no longer fits under the car etc etc. But it's done. Spare installed with silver anti-sieze. Tyre looks salvageable but now the rear door won't open (had to crawl over the back seat to retrieve the jack tools and wheel brace) and resists all suggestions. grrr .....take the wheel to the fixit shop in the Outlander. Note to self: get extra WD40.
TopicToaster
SupporterIt could be 'on the way out' .. like my bros D2 did.
I found lock/unlock a few times, then try to open ... rinse and repeat .. door may open like there was nothing wrong with it .. for a few days.
Then it will start again .. playing dead for a while.
The spare lock out of the parts D2 did the trick to stop the annoyance.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Master
That may well be the case. I have sqirted wd40 in as best I can. Thinking I may have to dismantle from the inside. I guess that must be possible. Falling out of love with my car. 😞
ChatterBox
SubscriberBefore pulling it to bits, just make sure the outside handle hasn't seized in the partially open position, easy to pull it down with a small screwdriver then try and re open.
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