That’s reminds me Bohica, I snapped off the right angle connector joining the water feed from the engine bay to the bonnet but can’t seem to find a replacement for less than fifty bucks. Seems a bit rich for a plastic tube clip.
I replaced the windscreen washers! I paid for for genuine and got a genuine and a Britpart. One went is easily and one was a bit of a hard push. One worked out of both nozzles one worked out of one nozzle, I needed to needle the nozzle to get the water out.
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
 Wizard
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						SubscriberThat’s reminds me Bohica, I snapped off the right angle connector joining the water feed from the engine bay to the bonnet but can’t seem to find a replacement for less than fifty bucks. Seems a bit rich for a plastic tube clip.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
Dropped the young fella's D2 TD5 in to have some exhaust work done with my local guy. Another item on the list after fixing the coolant leak and exhaust manifold studs, though he can't wait to get his hands on the new suspension and wheels coming from Les Richmond. Bring on Fraser he says.
Just arrived: 2012 D4 3.0 HSE, the journey begins again ;-).
Gone: 98 Disco 300tdi Auto, and some extras
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberSpent a bit of time on the white D2, restored the head light lens's using the RainX kit but I did wet sand with 400, 1500 & 3000 prior to using the kit, looks good, no idea how long it will last but looks heaps better.
The big one though for me was getting rid of the red SRS light, it's almost a factory option on just about every disco I've seen. I spent time going through the connectors under the seat, opened up the steering wheel cover and checked the clock spring (battery disconnected of course) still wouldn't clear, a quick search on here I found discussion of the connector behind the glove box. I removed the glove box and there was the problem, the plug had actually come undone! 2 minutes to clean and plug back in, bingo no more red light. will be interesting to see how long I have a warning free dash....
I thought I was on a winning streak so grabbed the young bloke D2 as he's got the same issue, pulled the glove box, no dice, it was all good, also checked everything else, still no dice. So for the moment he will have to put up with having the red light on his dash..
Ohh well, always next time
cheers
Redd
2003 D2a "The Red Rig" TD5 auto, (number 1 son is now the operator)
2003 D2a "White Weapon" TD5, auto, 17" BFG's and more to follow
Almost qualified as a Land Rover operator
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SupporterI bought a couple of brands. One from Bars(i.e. Bugs) and a Repco box too.
Repco box came a bit more 'complete' .... more sandpaper, etc and even a small piece of chamois.
Used on the 307(pug) first, as that's the hack to test stuff on, and came up a treat.
Then used it on the LHS on the D2a a while ago, and it came up really ordinary(compared to the 307 attempt).
So had another look at the D2a light. I had a couple of spares to get it past RWC late last year, so the headlight I was doing is the one that came on the car. Had another go for the past week and for the life of me couldn't sand out some haze on the lens.
Then it occurred to me, the haze is on the inside of the lens ... so I sanded the lens for hours for no reason. Anyhow, sanded it with a few grades to get it back to smooth, then the wet and dry with the fine, where I only had up to 1500, came up nice.
Gave it a quick buff first to clear some of the sanding and looked good, considering the hazy/cracking on the inside of the lens, and finally shot the clear coat over the lens.
I did the 307 maybe a couple of years ago. Moved to country a year ago, now I have lots of driving with lots of bug splatter, but the 307s lights still clean up nicely enough.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
I guess that sometimes having the older model is better. Good things come in glass
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
 Wizard
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						SubscriberSpeaking of the older glass model, the inner reflector on one of mine has had water ingress and lost its shine. Been meaning to do something about this for years now. I just need to work out what that something is.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						Supporterin more ways than one.
Replacing halogens for LEDs is an expensive exercise .. 4 globes instead of just 2.
But on the plus side for the D2a lights, they are just a tad better than the D1/D2 type.
I keep walking past the D2a light I'm trying to restore, where it still lays, weeks later in the shed, and every time I glance at it, I see it as a sacrificial offering to 'the gods of heat guns and sealants'.
Will the heat prioritize unsealing it, or ruining the plastic lens?
Then, I walk out the shed, I can't help thinking to just chuck it back on(front side is good enough and will do the job) and save the better headlights for any future RWC inspection.
Definitely D1/D1 style mount system is far better design for the poor mug that has to remove and refit.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
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