Reply With QuoteDid you clean ALL the connectors on the new loom AND on the gearbox with contact cleaner before you installed the new loom?
Fossicker
Supporter
Help needed in Halls creek (again)
Hi all once again I have impose on the group to ask if anybody with a Nanocom that will read Discovery 2 autotrans codes is traveling through Halls creek (AKA Hells crack). The replacement harness finally arrived today at the post office (via the middle of god knows where on the 3 legged camel with the blind jockey) but alas dispite clearing the harness fault it now has another one. The flashing green m & s lights extinguish but now I have a permenent SRS light, the selector will not move past drive and it goes back into limp home mode at around 40kmh after clearing. Another Mechanic here contacted a transmission specialist in Perth he thinks that the original mechanic has damaged somthing else but without the fault codes we're firing blind so the only other solutions are stripdown the tranny to try and find the fault or replace it in either case it's a very expensive excersize. So once again HELP from Halls creek we've been here 17 days now and we've had enough! This was ment to be my bucket list trip befor starting my next rounds of cancer treatment in September, loosing another 2 - 3 weeks can't happen.
Thanks
AdrianS
OldBushie
SupporterDid you clean ALL the connectors on the new loom AND on the gearbox with contact cleaner before you installed the new loom?
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
Wizard
Subscribersent you a pm (private message)
cheers
blaze
ChatterBox
SubscriberGeez Adrian , you're sure having a $#%@ run , when you say it won't move past drive , if the selector cable is disconnected can you get 6 clicks out of the lever that goes through the xyz ( inhibitor switch ) ?,also will it go past drive when disconnected? the SRS light might be unrelated, unless they have pinched wiring when replacing the harness, very difficult to diagnose from afar but it is a possibility the TCU thinks it is in low range, if you have no luck in the near future I have a good discovery 2 that would make the trip if someone can organise a truck to get it to you
ChatterBox
Assuming you had the console out for the harness change?
The SRS ECU is under there and clearly marked. Perhaps the wires have been damaged. In any case the SRS light can be ignored and not a show stopper.
The SRS wiring is Orange/White twisted pair.
Make sure the selector cable outer is secure in its bracket.
Is the selector knob pushed home fully.
Check and reseat the auto ECU plug under the seat.
Communication wires to the engine ECU are white /yellow twisted pair. Damage to these can cause the M S lights and limp home mode.
1 of 3 suggestions.
1/ truck it to Darwin or Alice.
Dealers there.
2/ Wait longer there and hope someone, sometime shows up with a Nanocom.
3/ Buy a Nanocom, wait longer, and possibly find you still need to use option 1
If it's any easy fix in Alice or Darwin your on your way again.
Beats the current situation.
Master
SRS light isn't tied to auto issues, so that can be ignored at the moment.
Won't go past drive, limp mode and 40kmh. The cable connection to the xyz switch is definitely a place to start, it sounds like it has been placed too far into the clamp, so it's actually in 1st, auto thinks you have D selected and adopts a safe strategy.
Is it at high revs for 40 suggesting it's stuck in 1st? Limp home I believe uses 3rd for everything, even from standstill.
The XYZ switch has two sources of alignment, the switch itself has an amount of rotation, but from memory I think it's about 10 or 20 degrees, so probably a position or two for selection (i.e. you could rotate the switch to get from N to 3). The cable clamps in and that is the one that sets the actual indicator next to the gearstick, this can be off my miles.
From memory if you push the selector on the box all the way to the engine this is 1st, all the way to the rear and that's park. Loosen the clamp, set the stick to D, move the selector to the rear, then move the selector 2 clicks (R->N,N->D) and reclamp the cable. now Move the gearstick through all positions and see if it appears good.
To now set the xyz you loosen the 2 (3?) bolts on it and gearstick in D, withsome in the car and the ignition on rotate the xyz till it reads N and then 3 on the dash, set it back to the middle and re-tighten.
Hope that's not any sucking eggs and fingers crossed that's the issue.
As also stated there is also the chance it believes you are in low, I don't think the connector for that cares about polarity, it's either a 2 tab switch which just closes or a single tab.
Good luck.
Fossicker
SupporterYes thanks for that will concider those options
Fossicker
SupporterSteve_A tried the selector and XYZ procedures you sugested I also went over all the connections on the tranny harness and the controler all are ok. The shift stick has been locked so it can't pass Drive but the XYZ and selector arm on the tranny will go through all positions. It still cancells the indicator lights but not the lock on the Drive position and still goes into limp mode after a very hard change up to 2nd at 40kph. On the plus side the SRS light has cancelled itself so that's one problem less to deal with. So it looks like I still need a Nanocom to find out whats up and I'm dreading what it is going to find thanks any way for the suggestions. Any others any body has will be welcome.
ChatterBox
The stick shift locking must either be the knob incorrectly fitted or a coin/ debris in the cabin shifter mechanism.
Master
Hopefully you spotted my mistake, it's 3 clicks? P->R, R->N, N->D.Originally Posted by AdrianS
It does sound like not being able to get the codes is keeping the issue from being pin pointed.
A quick search just now suggests that limp mode uses 3rd from stand still, so sluggy start. The D2 doesn't use a lot of interlock solenoids (I know it can, but AU models don't seem to from what I've seen), so you should be able to move the gearstick through all positions, if you can't then I agree with the other post, it sounds like something fouling the mechanism in the cab.
The gearstick pulls off (in neutral, straight up, probably with button depressed) then you can remove the surround. The electrical connection is like a pivot arm mechanism, you lift the bar and the connector pulls itself out.
Once that is off you should see the mechanism, I can't quite remember if there is some foam over the top, but I'm pretty sure you can see all this without removing the centre console.
Do you have access to a standard obd connector and a laptop, I am having a look to see if I can get the DTC for the auto ecu via that route - it might give a pointer, maybe.
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