Starter buggering up the signal? replace the starter? put in a geniune crank angle sensor?
Starter buggering up the signal? replace the starter? put in a geniune crank angle sensor?
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
If it's manual try to bump start it without cranking and if it starts this way then replace the starter... to check the crank sensor you can start it with spray cos it will run at idle few seconds on that and watch the rpm on nanocom, if it's not like when the engine is normally at idle (around 780) then the crank sensor is sh*t
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
It's an auto by first post so no bump start![]()
I didnt go back untill the first post... did nanocom confirm that the security code was learned? ... i insist to measure the voltage on the battery while cranking cos it's very important
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
Nanocom did confirm that the security code was learned.
The engine did start when Aerostart or something was sprayed into the inlet. When the spray was used up, the engine stopped.
Volatge while cranking was above 11V
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
did you confirm the fuel line into the fpr was the right way round and you had flow from fuel cooler return ? it doesn't matter if you hear the pump running as I've seen a couple of pumps where the convoluted hose has ruptured not allowing pressure
I'm not sure if the FPR has been touched.
It does seem like a fuel issue when it starts with aerostart.
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
yes probably fuel issue that's why I asked about flow from fuel cooler and checking correct plumbing re fpr
how were the bump clearances done ? ( this question to ashley )
the only other thing I can think of is to lock / unlock the vehicle before trying to start again
Thanks for all the replies/help guys, especially Bohica for coming down, much appreciated. I'll try answer as many as i can in one go.....
The starter was rebuilt with a genuine kit (it was advertised as genuine......) a couple of months back. But maybe that's not a good enough option and I might have to suss out another starter?
Bump clearances were done as per the manual? (Father is a retired mechanic so i'm only assuming they were done correctly/to spec as I've got no reason to doubt. He did them the same as he did a year or so back when we first did the injector washers/seals and there was no problems then)
The fpr as i said wouldn't be 12 months old and was done before the non-starting issues (it got me to/from work about 50km's a day for 6+ months until the day the tow truck was called....)
The photos below (hopefully they've added, i havent uploaded photos in years, apologies if they don't work), the nanocom ones are off Bohicas showing the only faults, both cleared ok as I recall with no change. I plugged my Icarsoft LR2 in after he left just for something to do basically as I hadn't used it since I updated it a couple of weeks back I got the two different (?) codes? Now I don't recall ever seeing the noisy crank signal fault ever before yesterday. We had another crank angle sensor so we swapped them over and still no starting (the battery was getting a little low at that time so haven't tried the other since). The wiring/plugs too/from the crank sensor was checked by a auto elec (when the whole loom was out) and all tested ok.
The Driver Demand 2 was swapping rapidly between the 8v and 40v constantly, and the Engine Speed of 4275rpm when the thing wasn't running? No idea.
Maybe I better start saving for a genuine starter and crank angle sensor? (yes i'll freely admit I don't have a genuine crank angle sensor in it due to cost, yes i'm also aware that's looking like a bad thing maybe?)
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