Mine has started to give a loud groan or creak when turning left close to full lock from front left wheel. Lower ball joint near new. Assume my roll bar bushes or links are likely culprit?
Drove the D4 up on ramps to pull out the valve body on the auto. She's going for a vac test, new solenoids, zip kit, retest and then back into the hole.
Mine has started to give a loud groan or creak when turning left close to full lock from front left wheel. Lower ball joint near new. Assume my roll bar bushes or links are likely culprit?
When I wanted to take mine onto a certain iron ore mining site (back when the vehicle was originally purchased, this was part of its intended duty), I was told that I had to install a roll cage as well as stripes / flag / commercial 2 way radio etc. I told them what they could do with their roll cage, and told them to hire me a rice burner for site work.
A week or so ago I gave mine a BAS tune and EGR delete. Has made a noticeable difference to the way it performs - especially when overtaking road trains.
Over the last week or so, I have been trying to "recover" my second Optima Yellow Top auxiliary battery (this one has only lasted around a year and has apparently dropped a cell) with no success.
So, after checking out what was available, decided to try to install a Fullriver DC85-12 85AH deep cycle AGM battery (I won't touch another Optima product). The Fullriver is a perfect fit on the Traxide battery mounting platform in my Disco, though it is right on the limit for height. Even though this battery has no normal raised "posts" - if you mount the battery with the post holes / leads towards the front of the vehicle, the bonnet hits on the bolt holding the negative cable onto the battery - enough to stop the passenger side bonnet latch from engaging. So, I turned the battery round with the "posts" toward the rear of the engine bay, and Jaycar provided me with a couple of longer battery cables. Fits perfectly and the bonnet closes without touching anything. Had to fabricate a new battery clamp out of a couple of longer "hooks" I had on the shelf and a length of leather belt.
So I'm happy - gone from 55AH Optima (which has proven to be a very unreliable product) to 85AH Fullriver - I hope they are as good as I've been told they are.
Previous Optima installation - IMGA0734.jpg
Fullriver installation IMG_2046.jpgIMG_2047.jpg
I like the leather belt but surprised you can get enough tension, must be tough. Also, maybe the positive lead should be covered just in case there’s a situation where the bonnet touches and shorts? Seems very very unlikely but would be all bad if it did happen.
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Made in Mexico Optima I assume, my Mexican Optima was down 36% IIRC when my mechanic tested it and it is also only a year old, so I tested if it would start the D3 which it did just, but that was with a decent set of 800 amp jumper cables, pro'ly would've done better if I'd hooked it up direct to the battery cables.
2005 D3 TDV6 Present
1999 D2 TD5 Gone
Fitted some bash plates and got a stage one remap done by Jason at Rova Range. Quite impressed with the outcome. I was looking to replace some of the power I lost with the 32’s. 53A7078E-ED58-4D7A-8E59-97161FCAE379.jpg1C0B0755-539B-4F51-B89D-43F7733E5EC0.jpgBC33BA4A-7ECE-4F5E-8C18-9CE8B5C2AD02.jpg266EA00A-BC06-4058-90BA-1943442129A2.jpgF453196A-2D58-4479-8A98-1767921A8F40.jpg
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