What happened to your D3/D4 today?

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Originally Posted by INter674

Rattle gun speeds up the process..just don't overdo the tightening phase!

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I find a safer option is a battery ratchet driver like this Ryobi 18 V one I have, for use on the spare wheel winch.
https://media.bunnings.com.au/Produc...bd4bd6dd4a.jpg

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Originally Posted by John_D4

I finally got the bullbar adjusted so it’s sitting straight. Being a ***** of a job I paid someone to do it for me. Money well spent IMHO - The shop agreed that it was a nightmare to get the bar straight. It took them all day!

So today I stuck the Land Rover letters on it. Just a quick 5 minute job for this Easter Sunday. Sorry about the sideways pics. I normally use tapatalk and never have any issues. Stupid website!

Happy Easter everyone.

Attachment 159518Attachment 159519Attachment 159520

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It looks like the bulbar fits over the existing bumper and wheel arches, no body work trimming required, which is probably why it looks so nice, no gaps big enough to stick your finger in, as with most bullbars?

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Originally Posted by Moggymitch

Had a stone go through one of the Pirelli Scorpions, glad I had swapped over to the standard rims and tyre size the other week. Hopefully I can get the plugs to fill the hole and get some more life out of these tyres, then get something more suitable for gravel roads.
Attachment 159649
What a PITA it is to get the spare down, putting seats up and then removing the wheel from the cable and bracket. I was a bit paranoid about winding out too much slack and then having the cable foul up.

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Or you could get new Pirelli's with more tread, as those look rather worn, might just be the pic though?

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Originally Posted by RANDLOVER

Or you could get new Pirelli's with more tread, as those look rather worn, might just be the pic though?

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Until you run high load rated LT tyres,punctures will continue.

In 20yrs of running them(LT) on different vehicles,only had one puncture,and that was a huge Teck screw.I didn't get it repaired as the tyre was shagged anyway,after doing 80K.

There are lots of LT tyres around,but the higher load rated ones are the go.
Although the vehicles ride may suffer slightly,but probably no worse than running bigger rims.

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Originally Posted by RANDLOVER

It looks like the bulbar fits over the existing bumper and wheel arches, no body work trimming required, which is probably why it looks so nice, no gaps big enough to stick your finger in, as with most bullbars?

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Negative. The original bullbar for the 2013 requires the bumper and the flares to be cut. I had no issues with doing this as I’m never going to use the bumper again, and according from what I’ve seen on Facebook marketplace, there’s no resale value for the bumper.

The installer said that with the newer models you removed the bumper completely and there is a cover plate that joins the bar to the newly exposed body and hides everything nicely.

There’s a bit of a gap where the front of the flares meet the body. Apparently this is normal. The installer said that Clarke rubber sell something that’s a bit like a dust seal that will clip over the bar and cover the gap nicely.

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Originally Posted by RANDLOVER

I find a safer option is a battery ratchet driver like this Ryobi 18 V one I have, for use on the spare wheel winch.
https://media.bunnings.com.au/Produc...bd4bd6dd4a.jpg

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For that once in a lifetime flat, Surely the tools provided are ok

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Originally Posted by scarry

Until you run high load rated LT tyres,punctures will continue.

In 20yrs of running them(LT) on different vehicles,only had one puncture,and that was a huge Teck screw.I didn't get it repaired as the tyre was shagged anyway,after doing 80K.

There are lots of LT tyres around,but the higher load rated ones are the go.
Although the vehicles ride may suffer slightly,but probably no worse than running bigger rims.

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Definitely looking at a more off-road biased A/T tyre for the future and have read the extensive discussions on the various tyre threads.

From what I can see all have the same load rating except for 1 brand which is higher.

cheers
Jonathan

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Originally Posted by Moggymitch

Definitely looking at a more off-road biased A/T tyre for the future and have read the extensive discussions on the various tyre threads.

From what I can see all have the same load rating except for 1 brand which is higher.

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But not all are LT rated and that is the best guide for strength. I understand there’s more to tyre construction than that but it still remains the most useful indicator and I wouldn’t run anything not an LT, which the Pirellis are not. Also, the one in your photo is beyond where I would replace regardless of construction if going remote.

Regards,
Scott

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Originally Posted by josh.huber

For that once in a lifetime flat, Surely the tools provided are ok

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The scissor jack is debatable, and I don't like letting the tyre shops use the wheel winch, also I've had occasion to play around with the tyres, the latest is I put Coopers AT-3's on the front but I think they are noisy, so I'm going to move the old Coopers A/T3's from the back and see if that makes a difference.

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Originally Posted by josh.huber

For that once in a lifetime flat, Surely the tools provided are ok

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My tools were missing and when I got them and saw how flimsy they are and tried to fit them into the little hatch I wished they'd stayed lost😞

Scissor jacks are simply dangerous. I preferred the D1/D2 Italian hydraulic jack..that worked ok for me.