Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

I’m close to this again and looking at DIY. I’m favouring the Filo method on Disco3 where he runs the motor to pump it out at the radiator cooler. Looks simple enough then push new oil back in and repeat. Can also drain sump as an extra measuring all the oil removed.

As mine’s been professionally done twice before I’m thinking replacing the filter is not as critical as the fluid so leave sump on.

Did you guesstimate the oil temp when setting the level?

I flushed probably around 18 litres through my trans last time I did a flush using that method and it didnt flush out nearly enough of the old LG6 for my liking.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-d3-d4...ml#post2959971

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

I’m close to this again and looking at DIY. I’m favouring the Filo method on Disco3 where he runs the motor to pump it out at the radiator cooler. Looks simple enough then push new oil back in and repeat. Can also drain sump as an extra measuring all the oil removed.

As mine’s been professionally done twice before I’m thinking replacing the filter is not as critical as the fluid so leave sump on.

Did you guesstimate the oil temp when setting the level?

I have the IID Tool to check the temp - absolute must have tool in my mind - especially if taking over more and more servicing and repair work as the Disco gets older.

Likewise had it done professionally before when the steel filter pan was fitted, but I skipped the filter for now and plan to do another drop and then change the filter after running the new oil for a bit.

With the Filo method - it is amazing how quickly it pumps the oil out. To confirm the oil flow direction, I had half filled a small water bottle after only probably 5-10 seconds.

Originally Posted by shanegtr

I flushed probably around 18 litres through my trans last time I did a flush using that method and it didnt flush out nearly enough of the old LG6 for my liking.
Disco 3/4 Automatic Transmission FAQ - 6 Speed

Your results were a surprise.

With the Filo method, you would think if you dropped about 5 litres of oil from the pan first, refilled, then pumped out another 5 litres from the top radiator inlet hose, you would get most of the old oil out - but your test results showed any new oil gets mixed in with the old oil a lot more than you would expect and you never get all the old oil out.

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Your results were a surprise.

With the Filo method, you would think if you dropped about 5 litres of oil from the pan first, refilled, then pumped out another 5 litres from the top radiator inlet hose, you would get most of the old oil out - but your test results showed any new oil gets mixed in with the old oil a lot more than you would expect and you never get all the old oil out.

Interesting, I think it’s a mathematical given using either method you only get a % out even when double flushing which is the best you can hope for. Not so bad if not changing fluid type.

The Filo method just being easier and quicker.

My thought was Filo first and drain pan second for any last residual as isn’t the gear box pump picking up from sump?

If you then did a second Filo only a week later that would be a good flush of say approximately 8 litres of change.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Interesting, I think it’s a mathematical given using either method you only get a % out even when double flushing which is the best you can hope for. Not so bad if not changing fluid type.

The Filo method just being easier and quicker.

My thought was Filo first and drain pan second for any last residual as isn’t the gear box pump picking up from sump?

If you then did a second Filo only a week later that would be a good flush of say approximately 8 litres of change.

Yes gearbox picks up oil through the sump filter. My theory was that by draining from the cooler I was essentially stopping the return of old oil to the sump and that it would only be picking up the fresh oil I put in the sump at each refill. There must be somewhere in the gearbox that is not getting good flow at idle and its not flushing a significant portion of the old oil out. Anyway my new tactic will be to give the sump a quick drain every second engine oil change.

My assumption was if you drop the oil from the pan first it gives the gearbox a fresh oil supply to the gearbox pump. Then by using the FILO method second you are purging old oil before it returns to the sump.

But I imagine there are a lot of internal bypasses that mix up any old and new oil pretty quickly. Filo’s method is not purely a first in last out method to match Filo’s name.

Originally Posted by shanegtr

Yes gearbox picks up oil through the sump filter. My theory was that by draining from the cooler I was essentially stopping the return of old oil to the sump and that it would only be picking up the fresh oil I put in the sump at each refill. There must be somewhere in the gearbox that is not getting good flow at idle and its not flushing a significant portion of the old oil out. Anyway my new tactic will be to give the sump a quick drain every second engine oil change.

Common issue is the connection seals between the VB and the torque converter/transmission itself. The fluid is pumped from the sump in the transmission, through the vb and into the transmission, as the vb is always submerged in the fluid. These seals get squashed up into the trans, leaving a gap that can lead to pumping / aeration issues. Its a closed system, so you need to drain the whole lot, flush and refill. There is a retained amount in the torque converter and cooler that a flush takes care of. The main filter is a flat "tea bag" type and is pretty good. Theres also a smaller screen filter inside the valve body and in front of each solenoid. Partial refill with clean fluid just mixes some new with a lot of old and does not remove trapped dirt. So a full drain, dropping the pan and replacing the filter and pan gasket is the best way, intervals between 60 and 80k kms have been talked about.

So we changed the SC V6 oil and filters today. I used an EBay @60 dollar12v pump that comes with clear hoses and quick connects.

DC 12V 100W Car Engine Oil Transfer Extractor Pump Fluid Diesel Electric Siphon | Crazy Sales

We first loosened the filter housing after leaving the engine standing for a while after warm up. The filter was tight to unturn but loosened up after a few rotations. Connected the pump and hoses and pumped the oil out...took about 3 minutes to drain 8L.

So after 10000ks since the last service the oil was quite smelly although it was not carbon black like used diesel engine oil. Nevertheless I'll be sticking to @ halved 10k services from now on.

Air filters x 2 were v clean but the cabin filter was filthy. All filters came from Sparesbox for @130 bucks delivered. I used 8L of Enviro C2 5w20 Penrite fully synthetic...cause Repco did not have any correct weight Castrol. Interestingly the sales guy said that LR specify 0w20 until warranty expires then 5w20 after that..if you can get it that is. 5w30 is ok too.

Whole process took less than an hour.

Pumping the oil out was a first for me and I have to admit it was so easy to do.