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Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

  1. #3021
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    It’s great that GME form factor remains basically unchanged.

    When I went from the earlier units to my full commercial ones only the power feeds needed upgrading.
    Yep, i contacted GME and i'll send my old one off for a repair quote. If its reasonable i'll get it repaired. Only 40ch but still a good unit and i hate throwing out good stuff.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  2. #3022
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    Quote Originally Posted by matti4556 View Post
    The ECM under the bonnet has an external factory "computer fan"!? OMG
    fanny.jpg

    I'd be surprised if it was needed except in the most extreme heat because with the amount of dirt and dust that gets down the back of the battery compartment over time I'd be surprised if many people had an operational one. might be better off removing the plastic shroud and fan entirely to allow for better passive airflow over the heatsink. it does throw a fault though (no red/yellow triangle though) with the fan unplugged.

  3. #3023
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bulletman View Post
    Attachment 175566

    For those discussing the fuel flow, this is the diagram i have
    And there it is. So I was wrong and I apologise to Discodicky for questioning that one. That's the EU4 schematic. With that fuel line configuration the restrictor prevents the majority of the supply flow going straight back to the tank. If the restrictor fails or is missing there will be almost no low pressure fuel pressure because the pump side of the filter will direct straight to the tank.

    The schematic I have is from an EU3 with the 4 port filter, and the bleed orifice is built into the filter. Bad day when you don't learn something!
    Now I need to find out why my return pressure is almost non-existent. I might be up for a new LPFP.

  4. #3024
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    And there it is. So I was wrong and I apologise to Discodicky for questioning that one. That's the EU4 schematic. With that fuel line configuration the restrictor prevents the majority of the supply flow going straight back to the tank. If the restrictor fails or is missing there will be almost no low pressure fuel pressure because the pump side of the filter will direct straight to the tank.

    The schematic I have is from an EU3 with the 4 port filter, and the bleed orifice is built into the filter. Bad day when you don't learn something!
    Now I need to find out why my return pressure is almost non-existent. I might be up for a new LPFP.
    No sweat mate; partly my fault for not being more specific.
    Turns out the 2 vehicles were both D3 circa 2008/9 and my mate says he had read something about this problem some time ago but could not recall where. He owns a D3.

    So now I have the little bugger in my hot little hand and have measured it accurately.

    "Plastic", with 3 tiny external ribs to presumably locate it.
    Length 8mm
    Dia 4mm except at one end it is 5mm because of a small "band" which is there I guess to allow location into the plastic 'housing' in which it locates.
    At that 5mm dia end the hole dia is 2mm (I put a # 45 drill bit thru which is 0.081" which is near as dammit 2mm)
    However, at the other end the hole dia is 1mm (a #58 drill bit which is .046" which is close enough to 1mm for the argument's sake)

    The problem which occurred in both cases was that this little restrictor became loose in the plastic 'housing' in which it sits and this housing sits in the fuel return line just before entering the fuel tank. Therefore fuel was passing around this restrictor rather than going thru it.

    One of the 'axioms' in the field of hydraulics is that if you increase the pressure, the flow decreases. Likewise, increase the flow and the pressure decreases. This is obviously a restrictor to decrease flow/increase pressure.

    We all learn something every day.
    The main thing as that if anyone with a D3 experiences low pressure probs then essential to check this!

    Cheers,
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  5. #3025
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discodicky View Post
    So now I have the little bugger in my hot little hand and have measured it accurately.
    Any chance of a picture or two?

    A failure of that device or its surroundings would cause low fuel pressure at the schrader valve. So one of the things to look for if you are diagnosing the low pressure fuel system.

    Edit : Just to confuse further, here's a similar device in a completely different location : DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Robbie's Guide To The Low Pressure Fuel System
    That's at the filter end of the tank return line.
    normal_IMG_3479~0.jpeg

  6. #3026
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Any chance of a picture or two?

    A failure of that device or its surroundings would cause low fuel pressure at the schrader valve. So one of the things to look for if you are diagnosing the low pressure fuel system.

    Edit : Just to confuse further, here's a similar device in a completely different location : DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Robbie's Guide To The Low Pressure Fuel System
    That's at the filter end of the tank return line.
    normal_IMG_3479~0.jpeg
    I am too stupid to know how to put up a picture, BUT........ that little white crittur beside the valve in the persons fingers is THE item I've been describing!!!
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  7. #3027
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discodicky View Post
    I am too stupid to know how to put up a picture, BUT........ that little white crittur beside the valve in the persons fingers is THE item I've been describing!!!
    So in that description and teardown, that white orifice is in the filter end of the line where it "tees" between the filter and return line. Nowhere near the tank connection. To get to that one, you have to pull the molded nylon line off the end of the fitting.

    It wouldn't surprise me to hear it's in different locations in vehicles of different years as they figured out how to make it work properly.

    How completely and utterly "Landrover". Now to come up with a way of definitively testing it because to get to that one requires dismantling the line in a manner that might be "difficult to reliably reassemble".

  8. #3028
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    For anyone who needs a laugh.. this is where I’m at this evening.

    Front left strut sprang a sudden and fast leak today and I need the rig to get me to work in the morning sooo…


  9. #3029
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    Be interesting to see what happens when that goo spreads throughout the system.
    2024 RRS on the road
    2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  10. #3030
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ferret View Post
    Be interesting to see what happens when that goo spreads throughout the system.
    Hopefully gravity keeps it below the port. That stuff usually works based on a good drive letting centripetal force hold it against the face of the tyre, so what it does to seal a leaking bag is anyones guess. I don't suppose you can chuck the bag up in a lathe to spin it while it cures.

    I love uncharted waters.

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