Thread: Stirlsilver's Disco Ute Project

I can't speak for the auto because I've never done one but the LT77 bellhousing was still a fiddle when I did my rebuild. Most of the top bolts were removed using a series of extension bars to allow the ratchet to work from behind the transfer. These were all wobble bars. They had to be offered up in pairs and joined in place. Fiddly but effective.

Just spent 3 hours following this from the start. I commend you on your work thus far!! Now cant wait to see it completed. You are one patient man...i couldnt do it. Cheers, Goose

What macMan says - get a whole heap of socket extension bars and run back along the top of gear box/transfer to where you can get your breaker bar on - I think I use 2x long and 2x medium bars - and buy some of the extensions which allow side movement (I presume that is what MacMan means by wobble bars - don't know the correct term)

These wobble bars are simply wonderful where you can't get correct line up - get a short and medium wobble connectors - the short one is handy to put half way along so the long extensions can flex.

Alternate is to cut a hole in the fire wall - given a donor car might be quicker esp if ceased.

Note - one HUGE advantage of a body lift is access to the bell housing bolts - so another alternate approach is undo the front body mounts and jack up the body - block it then use access to get to the bolts.

Skiboy

Originally Posted by stirlsilver

Thanks for some great input Skiboy, I really appreciate it!

Just while typing this I've actually thought of an idea that may actually address this in a better way actually - When I finish the car I might take it to a fibreglassing place and get them to make some nice molds of the rear quarters, rear wall and roof. That way if any of these panels get damaged they could just be cut out and fibreglass replacement panels used instead. I could perhaps then sell the panels to anyone interested in doing a similar build perhaps?

Definitely do this - it was a thought I had too (as I fixed the damage to our unique panels) - it would have been great to have a set of glass molds/panels from before damage to the rear panel - a glue on replacement would make life so much easier and driving less stressful. Repairs a quick and easy that way.

Also I would consider making the bottom curved panel a glue on job into a recess like you did on the rear wall panel. This was a very neat trick and one I noted for any future work I do on the alloy Stage One/Rangie ute (the yellow one in my sign on).

You could make the curve fit over the rear panel and under the door skin and be glued in place. Cut glue to remove and replace.

I am sure you could sell these sections - and possibly one of your roof if you had a mold made. Or if not interested in selling panels see if someone wants to make and buy the molds from you to offset your build costs.

Given prices of D1s and in the future D2s more and more people will want to build one of these now good rangies getting hard to come by. So a market for the panels or a kit.

Skiboy

Just to extend that. On my boat I have toughened glass in the front and wise screens. I have accurate plywood templates so they can be replaced easily if the glass is broken.

You might want to consider that for the rear window, etc.

Alan

Thanks for the input everyone. I opted for taking an angle grinder to the car:






I then proceeded with pulling the engine out of the car. Now there is an easy way to do this............ Or the hard way:


After struggling for ages to get the engine into the workshop, I finally got there:

Note you will face same bell housing bolt issue on reinstall (just done one in the weekend).

Do you have a body lift on the new cab (sorry can't remember) if so then will have more room to get to bolts but will still need to use same technique to do bolts up.

SKiboy

Originally Posted by Skiboy

Do you have a body lift on the new cab (sorry can't remember) if so then will have more room to get to bolts but will still need to use same technique to do bolts up.

At this stage, there is no lift on the body. Though it is looking like that wil change. Before I decide on how much is needed, I have to start looking at guard clearances at the front.

I was in the workshop again this weekend, and in hindsight it wasn't an overly productive use of my time. I went ahead and tidied up the rear wall so it fits around the rear wall horizontal beam and I also put steps down each edge of the panel:



The rest of my time went basically into unbolting the toque converter off the back of the flex plate. That was a bit fiddley because I didn't want to pull the sump off. But I got there in the end. So the engine is now sitting on the engine stand:



This evening I was spending some time looking at the rear quarter window frames. Currently the way I have made them it is like they form a small door which would seal against some rubber door seals. I think it will look strange to have the same arrangement as the front door window frames. So at this stage I think I will be fibreglassing the rear quarter window frame to the B pillar so that it looks like one continuous piece.

Also, I'm now starting to think about engine and gearbox work. At this stage I'm thinking of getting the ZF 4HP22 overhauled and upgraded with 4HP24 internals (which are supposedly much stronger). Have a look here to see what I mean:

Ashcroft Transmissions - ZF4HP22

The costs of the overhaul and upgrade are pretty staggering though!

On the engine side of things, I now need to start thinking about turbos, exhaust manifolds and inlet manifold modifications.