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Thread: Bundalenes Daughters 130 repair job

  1. 3rd October 2009, 06:25 PM #81
    andrew e
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Awesome project...

    just a quick maybe idea.

    My 130 gets used for probably much the same tasks out of Cooktown as this 130 will in Arnhem - Your tray looks a smidge heavier than mine but will probably get loaded the same as!!!! read that as 44s of boat fuel, motors, generators, eskies full of ice etc etc.

    Have a good close look at the tray / chassis attachments. If like Im guessing it only has 2 points of attachment at the front of the tray maybe try to build in a second pair up front tying into the main cross member. And then gusset up the chassis mounts. The rear cross member seems to hold up okay, but as you pack most weight up against the headboard, the front mounts take a hiding. The LRover chassis mounts will crack under load on corries. Easier to do it now in the workshop I imagine than up north?


    Steve
    Thanks, I will be picking up 6 points up front, (the 2 origional, and the 4 other resting points) plus the rear x member. It will also be bolted to the 2 flats beside the fuel tank. I was more worried it will make it too rigid, as it wont have as much flex in the tray as in the chassis.

    I will post up pictures when i take the tray off for final welding/paint.
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  2. 3rd October 2009, 08:19 PM #82
    andrew e
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    Well we got the rims back from being flipped... and i may have told him the dimensions wrong. What we ended up with the center 2" from the outer lip, not the bead, so the wheel sticks out 1/2" more than i planned. I'm still happy though, as all i wanted was a maximum stering lock with very wide tyres, which is what i have.





    Here is a comparison of how far the tyres stick out, new vs stock, using the bumper as a refrence.





    The disc brakes get better cooling with these rims.



    I have pretty much finished the rear framework for the soft top. just final welding, and paint when it is removed.







    I installed the 4 die down points, (and burnt out my nice Hitachi drill putting in the holes )





    thats enough for me today.

    Andy
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  3. 4th October 2009, 07:27 AM #83
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    Narangga
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    I probably missed it reading through the earlier posts, but are you going to give it a chip upgrade as well guys?
    Cheers, Dale
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  4. 4th October 2009, 08:28 AM #84
    andrew e
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuuu View Post
    I probably missed it reading through the earlier posts, but are you going to give it a chip upgrade as well guys?
    Hopefully, it depends on how much time we have. I would like to go for a 3" exhaust aswell.

    Andy
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  5. 4th October 2009, 12:45 PM #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    Hopefully, it depends on how much time we have. I would like to go for a 3" exhaust aswell.

    Andy
    And so say all of us!
    Cheers, Dale
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  6. 4th October 2009, 12:56 PM #86
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    long stroke
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    Awesome!!!
    Looks great
    I think you might need to fit some flares though

    TIM.
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  7. 4th October 2009, 06:56 PM #87
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    Bundalene
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    3rd October

    Completed EGR bypass. The original EGR was completely seized and I think the actuator is also faulty.



    Whilst doing regular checks we came across a colapsed turbo hose - not the sort of thing to try and find in a remote area




    Went shopping once again - seems to take most of my time.



    Marine carpet for the tray top and the other thinner marine carpet to line the tyre well, storage areas and the storage box under the rear seat.



    Waiting for the rain to stop before continuing painting.


    I would love to complete the engine side of things but we are waiting for a hose from the thermostat to the water pump and beyond. Until I have this I can't really proceed in this area.

    Next job - sill protection or under door protection because I removed the sills. One side 80% complete and material cut for the other side. Still have to insert the jacking point tubes towards the rear of this, as there are no hilift points at the rear of the tray. We plan to install some brush guards from the bull bar finishing at the front end of this sill protector. May also make a step - not sure yet.





    The door currently on the passenger side front will not be the final one.

    Sunday October 4th - day off.

    Erich
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  8. 4th October 2009, 08:20 PM #88
    andrew e
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bundalene View Post
    One side 80% complete
    Erich

    Does this mean you actually tried using my mig?


    Quote Originally Posted by Bundalene View Post

    Sunday October 4th - day off.

    Erich
    come on. at this rate we will never get it finished.

    Andy
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  9. 5th October 2009, 12:02 AM #89
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    EchiDna
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    just a thought - why not add a diagonal to the rear cage before you go to paint to give more strength as a form of roll bar? the materials used look heavy enough and the weight gain would be minimal...
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  10. 5th October 2009, 08:05 AM #90
    andrew e
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    Quote Originally Posted by EchiDna View Post
    just a thought - why not add a diagonal to the rear cage before you go to paint to give more strength as a form of roll bar? the materials used look heavy enough and the weight gain would be minimal...
    The headboard is 4mm rhs, which should do as ling as the roll is not too hard. Any extra bracing will take up too much access room, and add more weight. (all the framework behind the headboard is all unboltable, and will be removed during the dry season).

    Andy
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