Thread: A well used 80''called Klonk

Geez parts come up nice with steam cleaning
I wish I had a steam cleaning machine , beats getting heaps oily.

Looking the goods Steve, just keep plugging away

Managed to get time to get machine up the waterpump parts in the lathe after work and assembled the other night.

To start the bearing had to have one end machined down to 1/2'' from 5/8'' for the waterpump impeller, the other end was shortened up for the pulley hub, both these have to be a press fit onto the shaft. The bearing has a center groove around it and I had to grind a bigger flat spot for the holding bolt, this needs to be a neat fit as it holds the the bearing, if this is not secured properly the impeller could hit the housing causing damage to both parts and a destroyed waterpump.

Next I machined up a spacer ring to fit the seal into the main housing, the new seal is about 1 mm smaller in diameter than the old seal. This was fitted into the housing with loctite so it will stay there.
Then the impeller hub was machined, 3mm was taken off the face of the impeller and then a 2mm recess for the ceramic seal face to sit so it remains central to the seal as the hole in the middle is bigger than the bearing shaft. This was nessary because the new seal is longer than the old one and it is a two piece seal. This gave the seal 2mm of compression.

The pump was then assembled, seal fitted first then the bearing, locked with the bolt. The fan hub was fitted ,107mm from the hub face to the waterpump gasket face for the 1600 engines. Finally the impeller was pressed on untill there was 10thou clearance between the impeller vanes and the housing. When pressing this on dont sit the pump on the fan hub or it will move when pressing, press on the bearing shaft so only the impeller moves.
It should turn smoothly but you should feel resistance from the seal and hopefully it wont leak when fitted.

Sorry I didnt have the camera when I was pressing it together. It took abit of work but at least the bearing and seal are now easy to replace if I happen to wear it out.

Cheers Steve

I love this thread. Unreal detail there Steve. Where did you learn those skills?
Cheers, Pickles.

Thanks pickles,

used to be an old time tractor mechanic back in the days when you could repair parts not just replace them.

Cheers Steve

Slow progress at the moment for land rover rebuilds, too much going on work wise.
Have done a few bits in the evenings though. Generator and starter have been overhauled along with the voltage regulator. The aircleaner has been cleaned and the rust holes in the bottom have been miged up and has now been undercoated, its not the correct one but will do to get it on the road.
Ive been tossing up what to do with the swivel balls. It seems the aftermarket ones rust in a couple years even when not used. No one in Perth wants to rechrome them for me, so have decided to have them powder coated in silver. Im not sure how this will go but the powdercoating man squashed a coated ali tube with a hammer and the coating didnt crack, flake or mark. Best of all $70 each.
I have removed all the old chrome and have polished out the worn areas. There are a few nicks and scratches that the powdercoating can fill in.
Polishing was done with a 9'' 80 grit sanding disc on a hand polisher using the overhanging edge, very lightly. Took about two hrs each. The chrome came off easy.

Cheers for now Steve

Originally Posted by klonk

Slow progress at the moment for land rover rebuilds, too much going on work wise.
Have done a few bits in the evenings though. Generator and starter have been overhauled along with the voltage regulator. The aircleaner has been cleaned and the rust holes in the bottom have been miged up and has now been undercoated, its not the correct one but will do to get it on the road.
Ive been tossing up what to do with the swivel balls. It seems the aftermarket ones rust in a couple years even when not used. No one in Perth wants to rechrome them for me, so have decided to have them powder coated in silver. Im not sure how this will go but the powdercoating man squashed a coated ali tube with a hammer and the coating didnt crack, flake or mark. Best of all $70 each.
I have removed all the old chrome and have polished out the worn areas. There are a few nicks and scratches that the powdercoating can fill in.
Polishing was done with a 9'' 80 grit sanding disc on a hand polisher using the overhanging edge, very lightly. Took about two hrs each. The chrome came off easy.

Cheers for now Steve

Don't expect more from your powder coating than from the after market chromed balls. You just need to look at the powder coated bull bars to see that rust gets in and starts to lift the powder coating as the rust creeps under the paint. If the is a good cost advantage the you have less to lose with you experiment with powder coating.

a little concerned about the polished out the warn areas comment as I doubt that you could polish out more than minor surface discolourations, any wear you would need to consider building the material back up. Perhaps the seals have enough give to deal with the surface being less than spherical to a tolerance.

I don't understand people not wanting to chrome your swivel balls, they are familiar with having to fill rust pits etc. so don't know why they would be knocking business back.

Steve,

Great skills and posts.

Regards,

Phil

What about filling the pits with an epoxy-filler Steve?

I have done this on my S3 and it has been outside naked in the weather for 2 years and hasn't leaked any oil.

You are correct about the new ones flaking chrome, it has happened on my 80" in a dry shed

Cheers Charlie