Thread: Bundalenes '51 Restoration

Originally Posted by Bundalene

I will take a step back and install swivel bearings top and bottom, removing the splined arrangement which was in place when I stripped it down. I am informed that the earlier Series 1's had this arrangement. I am going this way because it is cheap, easy and hopefully effective. I believe the downside is that it is difficult to get desired pre-load.



New versus old








Erich

Further to this previous post, I removed a swivel today to check on a chrome ball and found this






The same mod which I am doing. There was a thrust washer between the end of the shaft and the bearing


Also we have been sorting front wheel brake components. I would like to put back cylinders with a BSF thread so that all the attachments and lines go back on without too much modification. I am aware that UNF cylinders are cheap and as a pinch I can make some BSF to UNF adapters

The vehicle we are restoring came without and brake components, basically a bare rear diff housing and a front housing with a diff and 1 swivel






We have 3 buckets of brake components purchased from the Walcha auction and recovered 1 damaged cast front wheel cylinder and about 30 alloy wheel cylinders. From all I have read, there seem to be some of these of dubious quality. The long and short I have located 4 cast wheel cylinders and given all a light hone. One left one might make the grade but both right ones are cracked











cracked cylinder






Some of these came from pretty corroded units












As for brake shoes, we have heaps for the front


The one from this vehicle I soaked in a molasses bath a while back and when I took it out after a week, it seemed to disintegrate in my fingers. I put this away into storage into that box which can't be found until you don't need it any more. Luckily there was another in the box of stares from Walcha. I stripped this and gave it a light hone by hand and it appears to need a sleeve













All seems there, I will need a sleeve, seal kit and a large copper washer



I will be off to Burts Brakes shortly to see what the damage is :



Another item which needed addressing was the snail adjuster on one of the backing plates which turned freely by finger. I removed the snail bit, pressed the collar or spacer on a bit - about 1/2 mm and will weld back the snail - ran out of time today. The unit now turns with a little resistance as it should.





You can see the small lip at the top of the collar which is how far it moved








This stuff is so time consuming - it took me the best part of 1 hour just to remove a single bleed nipple


Erich

Burt Brothers Brakes can do all, not sure about the prices but probably in the ball park where I expected.

Re-sleeve the master cylinder as it needs sleeving. This means 2 sleeves, one in the bore and another on the plunger as the plunger is also worn. Apparently the plunger seal is more critical then the bore seal I am told.

Price $80 per sleeve and a total of a bit under $200 for the 2 sleeves, seals and the unit re-assembled. Wheel cylinders are $60 per sleeve.

I will remove a master cylinder from another 80inch and see what condition that is in.

They can also make the flexible hose tails with BSF fittings on each end at $60 each.

Also have the copper washers for the banjo bolts etc etc. Prices above are approximate


Still having a think about which direction to go as I could buy the $20 - $25 wheel cylinders and have a hose tail with BSF on one end and UNF on the other. I will check all the brake lines and fittings before committing.


Erich

Some vendors who used to be great and not worth the tyre rubber to go to anymore. Particularly when they do things like fit seals in master cylinders the wrong way around, which can be very dangerous if you ever manage to bleed the system in the first place.

For a vendor who is still reliable, try B & R Brakes,
176 Sunnyholt Rd, Blacktown NSW 2148
9621 6488

Originally Posted by Bundalene

I will take a step back and install swivel bearings top and bottom, removing the splined arrangement which was in place when I stripped it down. I am informed that the earlier Series 1's had this arrangement. I am going this way because it is cheap, easy and hopefully effective. I believe the downside is that it is difficult to get desired pre-load.

New versus old

Erich

I'f you're going to fit tapered roller bearings to the top of the swivels, it will make the steering lighter and transmit lots of bumps etc from the road, so you will be well advised to fit a steering damper to protect your thumbs.

Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

For a vendor who is still reliable, try B & R Brakes,
176 Sunnyholt Rd, Blacktown NSW 2148
9621 6488

Thanks for the heads up, I called in late this afternoon and they are going to quote up in the morning with several different options. The prices appear remarkably similar.


Erich

Back again from a few days away.

We have been removing the few rust patches from the chassis. Almost done.














Also I figured out how to press back on the swivels which arrived late on Monday. I was going to re-use the locking collars, but the Workshop Manual advises to replace them. I was able to source these locally from Karcraft pretty cheaply so I didn't machine them myself. Also sourced new bearings locally








Also managed to damage the steering relay unit which goes through the chassis. I had to cut out a very stubborn bolt in this when I removed this some time ago. I broke the casing trying to press it out, even though it was soaking in Penetrene for weeks. I have sourced a new one from All 4 x 4. I was actually looking forward to service this. The steering relay had a little play, so it may have been doomed anyhow.







Also the brake parts are sorted, yet to be installed. I bought new wheel slave cylinders and had the master cylinder resleeved and this had a new plunger installed.





Erich

Free play in the relay probably just means that it needs overhauling, not replacing, but I doubt the casing can be satisfactorily repaired.

John

Great work! Keep it up!!!