Thread: Tiny bit excited

1-3. not sure what i have done but my coil exploded thankfully i was at the rear of the vehicle when this happened and sprayed looks to be oil over the engine bay. i had left the battery on charge overnight with the coil positive cable connected to the battery positive which did something and now the coil is extremely hot and the top blew off. maybe i should of disconnected this wire prior to charging?

is the coil filled with oil? i need to buy a new coil now. prior to this i had taken out No1 spark plug out grounded and can say it had spark when cranking, so went back to the idea perhaps it is a fuel issue. i have no fuel connected as such just spraying agent in the carby as i have no radiator connected. just want a quick start to hear her run for now before fitting gearbox into position. thanks again

Does the new coil need to have a resistor or not for the holden 186? Not sure which type to buy for my application, not sure the purpose of the resistor and whether or not i have one fitted to my vehicle.

This can happen when coils are mounted on there side , if they loose some of the oil that acts as an insulator as well as cooling they can genite the gas build up when they short internally . This may be why you are not getting spark. I see yours is mounted up rite so the oil level must have dropped to below the coils in side. On the bottom of the coil it should be marked what voltage it is , I would just get one the same.
When I was an apprentice with BMC I saw a photo of a Mini that the coil exploded , it blew the bonnet off & windscreen in . I also had trouble with the mini I had that when I whent around L/H corners it would cut out . My father also bought a new RR & it developed a miss fire off & on The JRA dealer did every thing to that car over the 1 year warranty period , replaced the carbys , inlet manifold , leads & cap . One day when it was playing up I had a llook at it & could hear a spark jumping , traced it to the coil , replaced the coil & no more problems. The JRA dealer tried to fix it but because it was intermitent it would never play up when it went to them. I will give you a call later today.
Wayne

Holden used Bosch electrics, and ebay has some for sale $60-70. Its not agood idea to leave the coil attached to the battery. The normal lead to the coil goes through the ignition, and when the car is not being driven, it has no power to it. Coils do get hot as they generate large amounts of high voltage. Dont leave the new one connected when not needed. when you are driving air probably blows over the coil to cool it down

Originally Posted by shamirj

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Does the new coil need to have a resistor or not for the holden 186? Not sure which type to buy for my application, not sure the purpose of the resistor and whether or not i have one fitted to my vehicle.

The Holden engine normally has a resistor, but whether one is fitted or not is anyone's guess.

The purpose of the resistor is to provide a better spark for starting. It does this by providing a bypass to the resistor when the starter solenoid operates, so that the coil, designed for a lower voltage, gives a better spark with the lower voltage while the starter is cranking and dropping the battery voltage. It almost certainly does not matter which coil you use with this engine, provided it suits the wiring. In other words, if there is a resistor in the circuit you must use a coil designed for this, and if not, you must not. Note that the "resistor" may be the lead to the coil or from the coil to the distributor, and not look like a resistor. A real possibility, suggested by the coil actually exploding, is that this coil was designed for a resistor but did not have one - the original Landrover wiring does not, although this could be there but was bypassed by your temporary wire. Usually when the ignition is left on for long periods the coil gets hot but does not explode - just the points get ruined.

This system was introduced by the US industry, which kept 6volt electrical systems long after the rest of the world went to 12v except for very small and cheap cars (e.g. VW beetle), while at the same time fitting ever larger and harder to crank engines. It was carried over when the US industry moved to 12v, possibly from force of habit, but possibly because it allowed the use of a smaller battery.

The battery normally fitted to Series Landrovers is much larger than the one fitted to the car that engine came out of.

The current needed to explode your coil must have come with the points closed - they are not designed to withstand current for that long, and I would be inclined to check their condition.

thank you to all for suggestions and offers of help.. much appreciated.

1-3. close up of the coil, underside says 'use with resistor' which was interesting, i dont have a wiring loom to speak off, all ripped out. might just purchase one with inbuilt resistor if available or without given i dont have a wiring loom. ever wondered what was inside the coil well here it is.

4-6. went back to the grab handles to finish off the inner bolts n nuts, mine has no opening in the rear to access nuts so came up with this solution and it worked well, tightened both sides, job done. used a tiny ratchet taped onto a long screwdriver to access the rear nuts into position whilst i tightened up the bolts. one step fwd, 3 backwards but i think we are making progress.

on the shopping list next is a coil plus a refurbished carburettor i think is necessary.

IMG_5272 Joes carby_LI.jpg OK , A is the float chamber fill with fuel
B is accelerator pump , put a few drops of oil in there to lube pump bucket.
C is where the fuel will spray out when you work the throttle
Hope this helps.

no more dramas thank god but some shocking news

1. more new parcels arrived

2. shocks for the rear, had the front pair finally got the rears Armstrong branded and look fantastic in black

3-4. some strange reason its too short, see pics and tape measure for end to end length for the rear

5. position of the shackle plate is near on vertical with no load, the tub is only aluminium could it come down that far to engage the shock. same issue with the fronts.

6-7. front shocks short with engine installed, could someone please give me some dimensions on the shocks front and rear fully open position. i have thrown out the old ones so have no measurements myself to go by.

ordered new coil without resistor and refurb carby all of ebay.

Originally Posted by shamirj

thank you to all for suggestions and offers of help.. much appreciated.

1-3. close up of the coil, underside says 'use with resistor' which was interesting, i dont have a wiring loom to speak off, all ripped out. might just purchase one with inbuilt resistor if available or without given i dont have a wiring loom. ever wondered what was inside the coil well here it is.

4-6. went back to the grab handles to finish off the inner bolts n nuts, mine has no opening in the rear to access nuts so came up with this solution and it worked well, tightened both sides, job done. used a tiny ratchet taped onto a long screwdriver to access the rear nuts into position whilst i tightened up the bolts. one step fwd, 3 backwards but i think we are making progress.

on the shopping list next is a coil plus a refurbished carburettor i think is necessary.

Yes that coil says use with resister , you didn't find one of these bolted to the side of the engine , coil securing bracket or on fire wall some were . s-l1000resister.jpg that is the type of resister you need to be looking for unless some one has built a resistor wire into the wiring harness.