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Thread: starting series 1 restoration

  1. #171
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    your portfolio

    Quote Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton View Post
    i already have all the spraying gear so ill stick with that plus that is also another good skill to show in my port folio for this project
    With all these skills being learnt and absorbed Tony , We think that Kevin is shaking at the knees and Tony Abbot is dead.
    If you want extra support I guess that many warriors on here would give you a glowing resume at a drop of a hat....
    don't stop, keep going, the lodge is yours one day....BTW that POR 15 stuff is very good on chassis

  2. #172
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    thats it
    it is about learning new skills

  3. #173
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    por 15

    Quote Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton View Post
    that's it
    it is about learning new skills
    Yes it is, so go and buy some POR15 then?

  4. #174
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    it looks like good stuff.how much would it cost to do the chassis with that aswell

  5. #175
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    well another not very successful day.ended up bringin the chassis back inside the shed as the wind was stuffing up the welds.still not very happy with the rear crossmember, cut out a bit of rust in the clutch croosmember and welded a bit of plate in there, cut out and ground/filed up the 2 brackets where the tailgate hinges go through and had ago straighting the bumper bar oh and ross aka 130man stopped in and we had a great chat and he gave me some great reading material its always good when you meet up with a fellow aulronian
    well even though things are going slow at the moment i think things are about to pick up

  6. #176
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    ill get some more better photos tomorrow

  7. #177
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    Thumbs up POR 15 paint for chassis

    Quote Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton View Post
    it looks like good stuff.how much would it cost to do the chassis with that as well
    Tony,
    the paint cost $88 for 1 litre and you need thinners to. You have to prep it using metal ready and marine clean. both are excellent products, I have used them and still have some in my shed .If you buy all the materials, its going to cost you more than your pocket money for 2 years .

    If you just want to get on with the job and not wait for deliveries etc, and you already have the spray equipment, 4 litres of spray enamel and some enamel add (hardener) added to the mix and away you go.
    You haven't mentioned the colour that you are going to paint the chassis? If black, the 4 litre can, mixed at the standard 60/40 ratio would make the equivalent of 10 litres mixed. That is a useful colour for many other things on the land rover, the smaller bits and pieces. I painted mine green.

    If using enamel add, wear gloves, and a spray respirator (a good quality one),the stuff is essentially making your basic enamel into 2 PAC and its carcinogenic, like all the paints that you are going to use shortly. So be aware and be very careful when mixing. New metal needs to be primed and the rest needs primer surfacer/ undercoat, then the topcoats. I gave mine at least 2, 3 is better if you have enough paint left in the can.
    Don't be in a rush to get stuff finished , just take your time and aim for perfection, after all ,what are you going to do with the time you saved? put it in wheelie bin?
    Tata Peter
    BTW what type of camera are you using, they are excellent photographs and the video was amazing, especially the one DAD H.P. scene.

  8. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by mildred View Post


    Tony,
    the paint cost $88 for 1 litre and you need thinners to. You have to prep it using metal ready and marine clean. both are excellent products, I have used them and still have some in my shed .If you buy all the materials, its going to cost you more than your pocket money for 2 years .

    If you just want to get on with the job and not wait for deliveries etc, and you already have the spray equipment, 4 litres of spray enamel and some enamel add (hardener) added to the mix and away you go.
    You haven't mentioned the colour that you are going to paint the chassis? If black, the 4 litre can, mixed at the standard 60/40 ratio would make the equivalent of 10 litres mixed. That is a useful colour for many other things on the land rover, the smaller bits and pieces. I painted mine green.

    If using enamel add, wear gloves, and a spray respirator (a good quality one),the stuff is essentially making your basic enamel into 2 PAC and its carcinogenic, like all the paints that you are going to use shortly. So be aware and be very careful when mixing. New metal needs to be primed and the rest needs primer surfacer/ undercoat, then the topcoats. I gave mine at least 2, 3 is better if you have enough paint left in the can.
    Don't be in a rush to get stuff finished , just take your time and aim for perfection, after all ,what are you going to do with the time you saved? put it in wheelie bin?
    Tata Peter
    BTW what type of camera are you using, they are excellent photographs and the video was amazing, especially the one DAD H.P. scene.
    hey thanks for the information yes i am painting the chassis black the camera is just a cheap something

  9. #179
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    so i am assuming that you can use the same paint for the chassis as the diffs if so how much black paint do you think i will need to buy.anyway back into the chassis again today its better now that i have had a day away from it

  10. #180
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton View Post
    so i am assuming that you can use the same paint for the chassis as the diffs if so how much black paint do you think i will need to buy.anyway back into the chassis again today its better now that i have had a day away from it
    Tony,
    4 litres of enamel and it will do diffs and anything made of metal.
    :Use fast enamel thinners (dries faster in winter conditions) 4 litres,
    :use general purpose thinners for cleaning up gun etc and use on warm days, if you wish for general painting.
    Aluminium needs special preparation
    : bare Aluminium scuff with metho with nylon scouring pad and then etch prime with aluminium etch primer. (Thin coat) and then primer surfacer /undercoats.
    :top coats
    Its good to have a break when doing restorations and do another part and come back to it later. Sometimes you are working to close to the project and cant see an obvious fault until you take the time to stand back and have a look.
    Peter

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