hey everyone ill get some for pics up next weekend im pretty sure its not a 49 its the same as the other one thanks for all the help and support already ill need a lot of it wen i get into the nitty gritty![]()
Schmierer,
I galvanised the chassis of my Series 2a Trayback ute; also did the firewall and radiator support panel.
Holes placement and size for ventilation and drainage is really important as you want to minimise distortion, and the trapping of air pockets (which can impact on coating extent and cause expansion explosion), and also so that you don't end up with a very corrosion resistant but massively heavy solid zinc chassis! At the time when I did it (20 years ago!), a really helpful representative from the local galvanising firm came to my place to look at the components and advise me on location and size of drain/vent holes and also suggested to where possible seal weld joints between rail panels and cross members to minimise collection of the cleaning acid in joint crevices. (As I understand it where crevices are exposed acid will collect due to it's viscosity being lower that that of the molten zinc, and it will leach out over time).
A metallurgist friend also tested the chassis steel for suitability for galvanising in terms of structural change due the heat involved in the galvanising process - the results were positive; steel grade was suitable.
The chassis came up really well, however it's still sitting in the corner of the yard!
Following galvanising you will have to ream out to correct diameter the spring bush sleeves and the holes for the spring shackle bolts. (I haven't done this yet).
My only concerns with a Series 1 chassis would be that it has more closed members than the does the Series 2A chassis (the rear crossmember comes to mind), and whether the grade of steel used in the earlier vehicles viz. early '50's, differed from that used in later years.
If you're considering galvanising the original Series 1 bulkead I have heard it can be problematic in terms of distortion due presumably to the difference in design to that of the Series 2/2A. I suggest if you're contemplating that to do some more research. There are a couple of firms in the UK who produce replacement bulkheads and I think galvanised may come as an option with some of these, however their design may differ from that of the original.
If you choose to paint the chassis following galvanising you'll have to use an etch primer or let it weather outdoors. (My default approach!)
Good luck with your restorations. (Hope they progress faster than mine..........).
Cummo
hey everyone ill get some for pics up next weekend im pretty sure its not a 49 its the same as the other one thanks for all the help and support already ill need a lot of it wen i get into the nitty gritty![]()
On ya mateI had two Series landy's at 17 too
I'm 18 now and have just finished fixing up my Ex-Mill 109" IIA, only got a couple more things to do before rego. I also have a 51' modle series I 80inch with a holden 186 as a farm hack, very capable little rig. Stick to it mate, it's worth i when you get to drive em legit on the road
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hey good to see other young guys out there into land rovers how did u get in to them
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I really only like old cars, very simple and easy to fix - my daily driver is a HZ Kingswood - haven't got alot of time for technology in my life haha. Basically I had been hunting around for a project 4WD to fix up and go camping in as mum and dad needed the use of our cruiser during the week. I was strictly a Toyota man but couldn't justify having to pay rego on two 6cyl cars (I would have gotten a HJ45 otherwise) untill one day I came across a basket case IIA for $400. It was 4cylinder and more importantly was different to a hilux which everyone seems to have haha. And the rest they say is history haha, that was about 1 year ago and after doing all the work myself there is only some brake issues to sort and i will have my beach truck
A couple of months ago I came across my Series I on eBay, also for $400 so I snapped that up so not to see it continue to rot away on the farm it came from. Seems $400 is the going price for old landys hahahaha and i now have a possible base for an awesome comp. truck![]()
If you are looking for inspiration you have come to the right place, there are heaps of bild up threads to get you ideas rolling, here's mine if you are interested lol, Saved!! 109" IIA (lots of pics)
Keep up the good work champ, add me on msn if ya want to talk landys any time lol
to right the wasting to much money on luxury and by putting more luxury things in the weight goes up then they need bigger motors you go back 30 years ago and the weight of vehicles has pretty much doubled im part of the KISS(keep it simple stupid) club and they are off road vehicles for a reason they are supposed to be simple and easy to fix i would never take a landcruiser 200 series more then 50m from the main road. might be putting in the posts for the shed within the next couple of weeks as soon as the shed is up im into it.......cant wait![]()
just got a lincoln mig welder last weekend and have starting welding the posts up for the shed unfortunately its being raining and the shed floor is a mess have to wait a couple of weeks to flatten it out
a few more pics before i start the last one is of where the shed is going
Hey mate,
cool pics, i remember 3 years into my project on my 55' i worked outside in the driveway. 3 winters was enough for me so i sold my brothers
63VW, it had sat there for 8 years and he said time for it to go.....bye.....bye...;-) I cleaned the garage out and rolled my landy straight in there
which is now much more comfortable to work in.
all the best with your project and keep the pics comming.
Chris.
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