Well I got a few parts for it today.
Some parts I had but got 2nds anyway and some I didnt have or were not as good as these.
It may not be all that good but at least it is Solex
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left singleton about 6 weeks ago and left for cairns and then alice springs and ended up at canberra my girlfriend and i will be living there for a while now. just came back up home and did abit on the s1 fixed up the gearbox as i had it changed so i could fit a s3 motor but now it is back to original.the engine is still away and nothing is happening to it so i am going to have to find someone else to do but this time i am not so picky so i am happy to travel a little bit just so it will get done but anywhere around the hunter all the way to canberra is fine but if someone is really good at it and can promis eit will get done soon then i will travel so if you want to let me know on here or by pm then that would be great also doing abit of work on dads new s3 i will get some photos up soon the plan is to do all the oils this week and take it for a drive to see if it needs any more work for rego
thats all for now
Well I got a few parts for it today.
Some parts I had but got 2nds anyway and some I didnt have or were not as good as these.
It may not be all that good but at least it is Solex
![]()
sick of this engine so I have decided i will put a 2.25l petrol engine in it matched up to a s3 gbox.
I have a few questions
1. how hard is it to change the mounts on the engine for it to line up on the chassis?
does the mounts off the s1 engine bolt straight on the 2.25l engine?
2. how would I go about setting up the clutch as it is meant to be mechanical but now will be hydraulic?
3. I have heard of people putting a later steering column/box in. how hard is this to do and what is involved?
Hi Tony.
This will help with question no3. the key part is the bent drag link, Im not sure of the legalitys of doing this. Just dont put any sharp bends or kinks in it. My steering wheel has 6mm more clearance between the fuel tank lid and steeringwheel than the original 1950 that a mate has, but I dont know how the rest of the setup works yet. This mod was done by a p/o. Ive just improved it. It uses A 2a steeringbox and bracket modified. Ive used the two bulkhead mounting bolts and done away with spacerplate, also have added a third bolt through the chassis with a tube welded in near the front of the bracket. The 2a box uses the wire steering wheel and Ive used the horn slip rings and horn button to look somewhat original. I think I may run into problems with the droparm comming close to or hitting the throttle linkage and wiring harness.
Also #32 on klonks main page has some photos of what it was like before I changed it.
Cheers Steve
A well used 80''called Klonk
klonks steering box
Why are you sick of the 2 litre motor?
If you don't want it, can I get off you?
Easy if you use a spanner instead of your fingers.1. how hard is it to change the mounts on the engine for it to line up on the chassis?
I'm petty sure they are a straight swap over.does the mounts off the s1 engine bolt straight on the 2.25l engine?
I'd use a later 2A gearbox bell housing meant for the 4 cylinder 2.25, watch that it has the larger bearing on the layshaft to mate with the layshaft in the Series 3 gearbox and doing it that way you can still use the original clutch mechanism.2. how would I go about setting up the clutch as it is meant to be mechanical but now will be hydraulic?
I don't know anything about this, if you were going to that much trouble to chop a early Land Rover up, I would use the power steering from a Discovery and then put 11" brakes on the front to stop the show.3. I have heard of people putting a later steering column/box in. how hard is this to do and what is involved?
.
I am going to put all the original stuff on but I am sick of the s1 engine no one can do it so I am going to put a later engine and gbox in so i can at least move on with the project. I bought the other 80' for parts for this one but it is too good to pull apart and it has matching numbers all round even the rims![]()
Have they given their reasons why reconditioning that engine is so difficult.
Is it something to do with the slope of the top/deck of the block?
To bore out the cylinders, they must be able to get under the chrome finish in the top of the bore.
How far away from where you live have you tried to find a engineering shop?
.
the first guy was local it sat in the same spot i left it 5 weeks later when i picked it up the guy who has it now has had it for over 2 years and we have popped in about 3 or 4 times to see how he is going and everytime same old story I am just about to get onto it once i get these other ones done.
I have asked around canberra and on here but no one has really answered me but a guy did tell me yesterday there is a place at penrith who does them.
I am picking the engine up tomorrow so maybe when I get back in 2014 I will get a chance to take it to someone.
Just an offer if you get it to me it would be ready by 2014, they are not hard to do, 2 local engine shops here can bore them without difficulty.
Dennis
where are you located dennis. I am picking it up today and flying out thursday so I dont really have time but I will be coming back in january next year and I will be here for about 5-6months so maybe then would be good
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