Thread: Gilbert

My fuel tank is separate to its mounting bracket.
Should the two be soldered joined, or were they two separate bits.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

One of the guys at work has been involved in the suspension industry for a very long time and was with OME before ARB bought them out. He recommends painting the leafs with a zinc rich grey primer and use graphite grease when you reassemble the leaf packs.

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

My fuel tank is separate to its mounting bracket.
Should the two be soldered joined, or were they two separate bits.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

If you are referring to the 'bash plate' under the tank, this is supposed to be attached to the tank by soldering. If not sol;dered, water will accumulate in between and rust out the bottom of the tank.

Thanks for the replies.
still pondering the lub on the springs.
Had a chat to an old trailer builder, his comments suggested that if you lub the springs," It removes it dampening effect, the springs were originally designed to do, so giving more impact on the shockies, thus increasing there rate they wear out. Many caravans and trailers rely on the dry Friction dampening, as they are still built with no shockies fitted.
The friction is two way, compress and rebound."

Ordered some parts from RoverSpares.
Sean mention name change, was from Land Rover UK, who owns the name rights. Maybe he's not really selling Land Rover parts in Australia !!!!!!!!
Gaskets and washers for F/R diffs. Gearbox gasket and oil seal kit, plus the 3 indent springs, as this gearbox was fitted to the Engine I rebuilt, on std bearing and pistons, I am hoping nothing is worn much in it either.
I ordered top and bottom radiator hoses for my S3. Sean sent what I discussed and ordered, but the are not correct.
The engine side of the two hoses are correct, but the Radiator inlet and outlet are of a smaller diameter, so the hoses are a very loose fit.
My other 1975 S3 has the same smaller inlet/outlet, as does my S2a and the other 2 'Series 3' radiators in the shed.
Are these 4 not actually S3 radiators. The correct hose looks like they have a large end just where it connects to the engine, then down to smaller diameter on the rad inlet and outlet. ????
Thanks for you comments

whitehillbilly

I see only one type of hose listed for Series 3 (different for 4 and 6, and, of course, V8), but there are a number listed for Series 2a - various combinations of early and late radiator types, and for petrol and diesel, and for different angle of bottom connection, as well as different 4 and 6. The radiator you have may be a Series 2a one!

My SIII has same diameter both ends of both hoses. Sounds like they have sent you correct hoses....but you have a different radiator.

Back on the "should get the chassis Gal coated" road again
Probably not much over $300.
Any members been down this path recently ????
Still worried about twisting, as replacement steel was 2.5mm

whitehillbilly

I looked into galvanising mine - quote was about $450 so not the end of the world, but heaps more prep getting all - and I mean all - the crud out of the chassis, which may in fact mean cutting holes in it to get it to where the galvaniser would be happy. Twist was my other concern. In England where this is much more commonplace during full rebuilds, many of the galvanisers have jigs for the chassis, which you just won't find over here.

Not sure if it is a huge issue though - after all, the Perentie chassis were all galvanised so someone overvalued here must be able to do them right.