Thread: Gilbert

Went and pulled the Shark Teeth, off the S2, for the windscreen on Gilbert, so as can fit the Tilt.
I an thinking of putting Nutserts where the pop rivets were, and bolting it on making it easier to remove, if I want to put hard top back on.
Just wondering members thoughts an comments.
Would steel or alloy pop rivets have been used, as I need to replace one of the shark tooth D's, for the two over head internal straps.
Thanks.
whitehillbilly

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Slow weekend.
Second S3 being restored by 3rd party. So getting in the way of what I need to do, and tool usage.
Picked up a hoop set, has the bits I need and a fully enclosed front bumper bar.
I fitted the firewall, just to get it out the way. Nuts face the rear ???? Does it need washers, or just nut and bolt ????
Thanks.
whitehillbilly

I put nuts to back it just felt the way it should go........but when I put the tub on the doors didn't fit properly and I had to add some shims to the bolts your talking about.
If I was to do it again (which will be happening with my next project) I would fit the tub first as there is no adjustment in the tub. So everything has to fit to tub it provides a datum to line everything up.
In the end I had to loosen all the firewall mounting fixings and lever things around to get some lining up.......big pain in the A because steering box uses same brackets as firewall as well

Cheers Paul

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Slow weekend.
Second S3 being restored by 3rd party. So getting in the way of what I need to do, and tool usage.
Picked up a hoop set, has the bits I need and a fully enclosed front bumper bar.
I fitted the firewall, just to get it out the way. Nuts face the rear ???? Does it need washers, or just nut and bolt ????
Thanks.
whitehillbilly

Nuts to the front. Use anti sieze grease. Cheers Rod

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Slow weekend.
Second S3 being restored by 3rd party. So getting in the way of what I need to do, and tool usage.
Picked up a hoop set, has the bits I need and a fully enclosed front bumper bar.
I fitted the firewall, just to get it out the way. Nuts face the rear ???? Does it need washers, or just nut and bolt ????
Thanks.
whitehillbilly

Nuts to the rear - washer under the nut, but more importantly, washers between the firewall and the chassis to adjust the position of the firewall.

The tub, bolted front and back, has no adjustment, so the firewall needs to be adjusted to fit the doors. Hence you need to have the tub at least temporarily mounted before finalising the firewall position. You can either temporarily fit doors or just use a tape. (You could probably use a tape for the tub too, measuring from the tabs it bolts to at the back.)

As others have commented, the bolts must be covered in anti-seize grease so that it is possible to remove them in the future!

Originally Posted by 67hardtop

Nuts to the front. Use anti sieze grease. Cheers Rod

As i said, nuts to the front. Take a close look.

Cheers Rod

Hi.
Was looking at the steering again today, as I couldn't get full lock LHDown, back of LH tyre hit spring, well before RH side, hitting stop. 1/2 inch.
I set to front rods as per book,
track rod 1160mm
drag link 783mm
other 631mm book says 621mm, 3 threads exposed. need to be extended to get full lock both ways to stops.
also lower relay arm not 90 degs to track rod, as per manual.
The pics are of the set up. 3 threads exposed, basically correct toe in. The steering relay arms set as per S3 manual. 81 deg
you can see position of steering box arm.
Can anyone see any problems with the way I set things up, or should I move the top relay arm one spline towards the Bulkhead, reducing the number of threads exposed. Will toe in change when I put the motor in ????
The steering dampener is fitted as per image in my S3 manual. Is it the correct way round. No weight on front end yet.
I got my one from Repco. $76 in stock.
Nitro 4x4 steering dampener. MTD011N
Was orange, painted it black.

Thanks

whitehillbilly

Something wrong there. The top arm on the relay should be at 90° to the chassis at neutral steering. The botton arm is also at 90° only s3 were different. To the drivers side. Disconnect the ball joint from the steering box and make sure the steering box is in the middle. Same amount of turns from straight to left and right. Then make sure wheels are pointing straight. Adjust steering box rod to get 90° on top relay arm. May have to remove arm and reposition but it looks ok from pic. Have you mixed up the rods from the steering box and front rod?? That may explain why the angles look wrong. The steering box rod should be 570mm long from the ends of the tube NOT the tie rods. The drag link should be 595mm long from tube ends . Then the steering damper bit gets screwed in


In the pic ive shown where the steering damper screws in. That is the longer rod.

Cheers Rod

If gilbert is a s2a then the relay is supposed to be 90° and 90°. S3 were 90° and 81°

I see that gilbert also once had a capstan winch fitted

Cheers Rod