Gilbert

**mick88** · 18th March 2019, 08:39 PM

Looking good Shane.
You certainly gave the alloy a good clean up too, it wouldn't have had a lustre like that even when it was new.
Did you Loctite the nut on the front of the main shaft, as well as the one in the rear of the TC?
The one that requires the special tool.

Cheers, Mick.

**whitehillbilly64** · 19th March 2019, 07:07 AM

Hi Mick.
Nut on front of mainshaft ???? Panic
Series 3 has circlip.
Picked up the special tool from UK. Even came with new nut.
The old nut has never been off, so not cold chisel butchered.
Old Front output seal was Leather.
Case cleaned up with cheap degreaser, and a little hand wire brush.
TC today. Not really understanding the preload. Will read manual again.
Have lots of shims now. Do you test with shims added, or tighten housing till you get the preload with string and balance scales. Measure gap with feeler gauges and add required shims of that thickness ????
Thanks

whitehillbilly

**JDNSW** · 19th March 2019, 07:56 AM

The last, but recheck with the shims in and tightened.

**whitehillbilly64** · 19th March 2019, 10:37 AM

Thanks John.
Grease or sealant between shims ????

whitehillbilly

**JDNSW** · 19th March 2019, 12:13 PM

My view, clean, slightly oily, make absolutely sure there are no specs of grit. You want nothing increasing the thickness or that is compressible.

**whitehillbilly64** · 20th March 2019, 07:46 AM

Thanks for the replies.

I bought a series 3 gear lever from Bearmack
I fitted it to my gearbox yesterday, to bench test work done.
It is different from the original, broken one, the ball smaller, with a soft rubber ring.
During testing I manage to pop the lever from the reverse gate into 'no mans land.
Is this a common problem with these after market levers ????
Apart from finding a good old one, any solutions for the new one.
I did apply some light oil to parts on assembly, just so I dont have a dry start up, but it has caused 3/4 syncro to lock up, somewhere in Neutral position, guessing its light oil.
Does free up, but all gears seem hard to find, especially 3 and 4. ????
1/2 dentent spring nut has no washer fitted. Is this just screwed down with some sealant, or should a copper or fiber washer be fitted. seems to be a recess for one.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

**whitehillbilly64** · 22nd March 2019, 06:12 AM

Mystery.
I bought a set of Genuine Detent springs for my S3 rebuild.
On fitting, they lock up 1st and 2nd completely, lever bends trying.
Very very hard to engage 3rd and 4th, plus reverse ( smaller spring )
Yet when I fit the springs supplied in the kit, every thing works perfectly ????
Balls and shafts lightly greased when fitted.
Thoughts please.

whitehillbilly

**JDNSW** · 22nd March 2019, 06:27 AM

Only thing I can think of is - are the balls and the grooves in the shafts worn? Or is there a washer left out? Are they the right balls?

**whitehillbilly64** · 22nd March 2019, 06:50 AM

Thanks John.
Washer ??
Nothing seemed worn.

whitehillbilly

**whitehillbilly64** · 22nd March 2019, 09:20 AM

Well I got out old spring and balls.
All the balls measured up the same, but the springs were not the same as the Genuine new ones, which had an extra coil.
The difference between locked up and free was half a turn.
So I added a copper crush washer I had left over from the Engine Kit, to the Brass plug.
Nipped up firm and all was good.
Put a few older and the new After market springs back in, 1st/2nd without copper washer.
New Genuine Spring with copper washer had a lot more resistance to change gears, as did the other gears with the Genuine ones.
With the old ones and new after market ones resistance was noticeably less.

whitehillbilly

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