Reply With QuoteFew more of Chassis.
whitehillbilly
ChatterBox
Started making bits for the rear Crossmember.
Happy with what I am doing, as understand now how it is fitted.
whitehillbilly
ChatterBox
Few more of Chassis.
whitehillbilly
ChatterBox
Main Chassis rail and bulkhead dumb irons.
whitehillbilly
ChatterBox
Rustkill then couple coats of Chassis Enamel.
Looks better than pics portray.
whitehillbilly
ChatterBox
Hi,
Whilst work on the chassis is carried out,
I would like to make the Gearbox cross member removable.
The original one has ROT and needs welding.
I have another good one in the shed, cut from another Chassis.
What would be the best way of fitting it, Bracket welded to the Chassis, or cutting the old one, leaving it still connected to the Chassis, then make a bracket to fix the new one to the old fixed bracket, with 2 or 3 bolts ????
Guess some sort of crush tube insert would have to be added to bolt holes.
Don't see the point of cutting off well welded bits, to reweld.
Am I making sense ????
Thanks for the replies.
whitehillbilly
Lord Jock
Shane, either somewhere here on AULRO or on the REMLR site there are drawings and the measurements on it.
I have seen them but can't recall where.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Super Moderator & CA manager
SubscriberI'm in the same boat here - it's the only part of the chassis I haven't finished on the S3. The old one was converted very badly to a removable unit and it's not salvageable to reuse in any way shape or form. I've got an off cut of 100x50x3mm RHS at home I'm thinking of using - it would be easy to notch and weld in and probably look better than new too. I'm not fussed about it being removable - the box will be fully rebuilt so won't be in a rush to pull it out again.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
ChatterBox
Made a start on the removal gearbox cross member.
Got a bit dark for pics.
More to follow.
Taking measurements on things, it appear 1/2 inch difference seems acceptable within a Land Rover.
whitehillbilly
Super Moderator & CA manager
SubscriberYep, 'close tolerance' isn't something that was discussed much amongst Land Rover Chassis Engineers.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Lord Jock
To be honest Shane I don't know if there is any real advantage having a removable cross member.
To remove the gearbox/transfer case you still need to pull all the flooring out and then to drop the box out the bottom, a hoist would be a big advantage.
Dropping it out the bottom in either a pit or on a set of ramps would be awkward.
Taking the roof off, lifting it out with a block and tackle, then pushing the vehicle away and then dropping the GB/TFC down onto a table, bench or ute tray
is a much more easier task, and a one man job. With the aide of an engine crane you can manipulate them out the door without removing the roof.
I reckon Land Rover got it pretty right when they designed it the way they did, as there is always a decent tree limb available in the bush, to lift from.
One of my vehicles has a removable cross member, but I have never used it as I find it easier to lift the box out the top.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
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