Thread: 2.25 head failure

I purchased it as a Kit EBAY. Land rover. came with instructions.
mounts on the bulk head. highly adjustable so you have to judge the geometry.


the inside handle clamps on a shaft. on the outside it was horizontal when at half way.






the rod connect straight up to a loose link with the actuator on the passenger side. The short arm that clamps to the shaft I set up with minimal clearance at idle. to raise RPM it pushes up.


Put it on and it worked first go.


I played with the rest of the linkage today as I wasn't getting full throttle. I first tried to use the second hole in the Left hand end arm[heater core end] so it pulled the throttle rod more. this caused the clip to fowl and the relay arm to go straight so it cant rotate.
I adjusted the arm several times but it pulled on the relay [mounted to the inner wing] no rotating it at more than 3/4 throttle.


I then shortened the adjustable rod that connects to the carby and bent the arm on the relay so it pulls down not sideways. still don't get full throttle. I was thinking the relay wasn't correct or mounted incorrectly.


similar to this link-http://logicalgenetics.com/2009/07/

I also found plenty of pictures for the hand throttle-like on ebay.
a few have articals on how to rebuilt the links but are for diesel. slightly different.


Today I drove to a car show in tomago. behaved lovely ran cool.

Hello Dave,

Thank you for the description. I have the remnants of about three on ex-military Series III Land Rovers and they were fitted to the passenger side of the tunnel. I also have a civilian diesel that was fitted to the firewall. Unfortunately Batty's was the only one that worked and I did not think to take a photograph of the position of the rod within the pinch-clamp of the handle and how it was connected to the rod going through the firewall to the carburettor before I pulled it apart. It is a 2.6 litre six cylinder so perhaps things are tweaked a bit differently to your engine's?

I will look at everything in the bright light of tomorrow and trace it back from the carburettor to the pinch-bolt's position.Then I will try getting it right again. I might even use some of my wife's fingernail polish to mark the respective position of everything so it does not happen again

Kind Regards
Lionel

2.6 is a lot different.
mine is a 2.25 diesel Kit and mounts to the firewall above the tunnel. I was told by my raaf mates about the hand throttle on the left foot well. I guess they used a LH drive throttle rod.


Might do a search under SER2A. I had been offered a few of these but the mount near the knee look like the vent control.


the item I saw had a nut on the end of a rod the slid through a clevis pin linkage worked like a choke cable. pulled to increase.

Fitted an electric fan in front of the radiator and removed the original 4 blade mechanical fan. on the road it runs cooler without the cowl or fan blade. The temperature when testing hasn't been over 25 C, I did a run on a 12 deg and raining in local forrest with the fan not turning on at all.


I used a electronic thermostat over ride switch and a cyl head water temp switch.


Not overly happy with the temp adjustment so far. I still have 82 deg thermostat and given up playing till I get a lower temp thermostat fitted. I tried drilling holes in it to lower the maximum head temp to drop the temp gauge back into the normal range. My guess is at this point it to use a cold standard 74 thermostat and control air flow with a grill intake muff for winter.


I fitted a condenser fan from a 1986 R31 skyline GT. good quality 2 speed 120 WATT 14 inch vintage metal frame that did not require drilling holes.
top mount aI used the radiator bolt, RH had a mounting I extended to the relay cover bolt, the LH to the cowl attach bolt. the fan Is removed with the radiator support as an assembly If meeded.


Low speed hasn't worked out as it cant maintain radiator temp when stationary or build up enough heat to turn on the high speed. low speed is currently not connected but may be required in hot weather?.


The fan doesn't turn on when the vehicle is moving if it does the temp increases as it restricts flow. The low speed cant maintain radiator copper temperature. With the engine running at 80C radiator copper temperature is around 50-60 C stationary, driving it runs around 30C without the fan.


It originally had wire screen over sections of the fan exposed by the Nissan grill intake. I replaced the wire screen in the heater fan intake and used the off cut to cover the exposed bit.

cold and raining tonight. Temp gauge running in the red, radiator core is under 40 deg.


One issue is when stopped with the bonnet down air recirculates back to the fan. Strong enough to hold paper on the outer edges of engine side core. my preference is for a puller fan but have less than 30mm clearance between the core and water pump


last winter I had fitted hesian to cover the grill to warm the engine.

Sorting out the radiator fan a bit more. Running a lot better now.


I replaced the thermostat with an aftermarket 74 deg Land Rover thermostat. From what I can guess is the new thermostat didn't open properly or got stuck so I been chasing a false issue. I had the temp gauge sitting on red with a cold radiator and no heater so I been chasing a voltage issue or a water pump problem. Running the Fan or heater the engine temp gauge showed higher reading.


The back up fan temp switch[85on-80off] in the head only came on when I parked for a few minutes. It turned off after a few seconds. so I discounted being in the red as over heating.


After a weeks running and checking the temp gauge suddenly dropped and the Rad fan started to cycle. gauge reads from N up to 5/8th . I can now see coolant flow in the radiator.


I ended up with the temp probe clamped to the lower radiator outlet as I moved it trying different locations. If I set the temp bellow 50c the fan operates all times and the temp gauge reads higher.
Ive set the fan on temp for 58 c , it climbs up to 62 before dropping to 49.

With the temp running in the red on the gauge I had plenty of power.
Up to that point it had been a bit slow on hills not having muck tourque. I had required choke when starting cold and the hand throttle for the first few KM. To warm up enough for heater it takes around 10 Km.


When I was fiddling I moved the distributor till the vac advance was parallel with the block. That bit of advanced and that power loss has gone.