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Thread: My 88" Series 3

  1. #231
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    Thanks for the reply's everyone, Chazza, thanks for the tip re checking the flywheel is flat, I'll investigate further. The hole in the tailgate looks like it from an accident, there doesn't appear to be any corrosion.

    Warrick, thanks for the kind words! I'm not a mechanic, if thats what you're asking I'm actually supposed to be an electrician, but I've only ever done industrial work. I spent a bit over 7 years in the defence force as a technician, then the last 13 years supplying and servicing industrial machinery for the cabinet making industry.

    With regards to the confidence on pulling it all apart and then putting it back together again, I have the aid of the parts and service manual, many hundreds of photos, and of course the wealth of knowledge on this forum!

    The parabolics came from Paddock Spares in the UK, and are GME branded. Just a note with the springs, it looks like the stock shocks will be too short, I might get away with the front ones, but the rear shocks and axle straps will most likely be too short. There are aftermarket longer ones available.

    Cheers,

  2. #232
    Join Date
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    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
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    And finally, another question for the community, would you bother getting this flywheel skimmed? There are no ridges etc, and you can run a fingernail across it without any hindrance



    Tim,
    I had a flywheel surfaced/dressed here a few months back and it was $80.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  3. #233
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    Thanks Mick, the place that supplied the clutch have quoted me $66, the biggest drama I have is getting the 3 dowels out. They are tapered so there is nowhere to grab them, I don't want to not have it machined for that reason, but I'd rather not do any damage for an unnecessary procedure.

    Cheers,

  4. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimNZ View Post
    ...the biggest drama I have is getting the 3 dowels out. They are tapered so there is nowhere to grab them,...

    Cheers,
    Scary! I can't say that I have ever seen tapered dowels, nor can I think why they would be necessary!

    Try annealing a piece of copper sheet and wrap it around the dowel, then grip it tightly with a pair of good quality vice-grips and try to twist them out.

    On parallel dowels, grip them with vice-grips and use a slide-hammer to pull them out,

    Cheers Charlie

  5. #235
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    They are the locating dowels for the clutch plate



    The big bit is in the flywheel, the pointy bit sticking out, (its recessed in a bit so pretty much the pointy bit is the only bit sticking out).

    I'll check the flywheel for flatness tomorrow, I didn't notice any clutch judder before I stripped the car, but I will be very sad face if it becomes a problem later.

    Cheers,

  6. #236
    Peter O Guest
    The dowels should not be that tight the pressure plate holds them in. Try a little spray and a pair of vise grips as suggested mine have always come out with just a little encouragement.

  7. #237
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    Thanks Peter, I've had "a bit of a go", but will try harder. Might be an excuse to try some "freeze spray".

    Cheers,

  8. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimNZ View Post

    Warrick, thanks for the kind words! I'm not a mechanic, if thats what you're asking I'm actually supposed to be an electrician, but I've only ever done industrial work. I spent a bit over 7 years in the defence force as a technician, then the last 13 years supplying and servicing industrial machinery for the cabinet making industry.

    With regards to the confidence on pulling it all apart and then putting it back together again, I have the aid of the parts and service manual, many hundreds of photos, and of course the wealth of knowledge on this forum!

    The parabolics came from Paddock Spares in the UK, and are GME branded. Just a note with the springs, it looks like the stock shocks will be too short, I might get away with the front ones, but the rear shocks and axle straps will most likely be too short. There are aftermarket longer ones available.

    Cheers,
    I thought you might have been a cabinet maker or similar as I could see a table for a panel saw in some of the images you have posted. I am in the furniture/cabinet building industry also.

    Thanks for the feedback on your parabolics. I hope that once you get your Series on the road the parabolics give a good ride. I have read a fair bit about them on some of the UK Land Rover forums and mostly it is positive in regards to improved ride quality over the conventional factory leaf springs. I imagine that the freight from the UK on heavy items like springs would be expensive. Are you using mostly Paddocks to source parts for the rebuild?

    Keep up the excellent work. It is also great that you have such good skills in documenting and showcasing your project as well. It will be a great resource for the AULRO community in future years.

    Regards Warrick.
    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex....It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
    Albert Einstein.

  9. #239
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    Mar 2008
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    Got on with a bit more body work today, namely de galving the tub. I need to get all the galv bits together to get redone.

    Removing all the rivets is a bit of a painstaking process. I've found the best sized bit to start and finish with is a 5.5mm bit. If you try pilot drilling the tailing jams in the fluting and obstructs the cutting edge.

    Anyway, first step is to center punch the rivet as best as you can





    Then drill the head off





    And repeat until you get to this stage





    On the colour front I think I've decided on Marine Blue. Here's my sample piece, (the underside of the floor plate incase I stuff it up )

    Outside in the sun:





    And inside with the limestone for contrast





    Oh, and of course the obligatory "before" pic





    Cheers,

  10. #240
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Narrogin WA
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    Nice colour - it looks good on so many cars!

    Aluminium rivets are easy to shear with a cold-chisel without damaging the capping. I got the idea from Dinty I think, who used a wood chisel; I made one from a piece of leaf spring.

    I suspect that you didn't want hear that,

    Cheers Charlie

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