Thread: My 88" Series 3

And progress

Got this bit back to the workshop today after watching it being built over the last couple of days








The bloke that put it together, Max Deburgh, (some may remember the name), is an absolute wealth of knowledge when it comes to LR series boxes, and LR diffs. Not too keen on me getting the camera out though, so no pictures.

A couple of mods were made, they were:

Ashcroft high ratio kit.
Speedo drive gear had a small blob of weld put on it so it located on the shaft spline. This means it is actually driven, not just relying on friction to spin it.
A spacer was made, (out of gearbox grade No8 wire), to keep the bearings on the transfer box idle gear separated as much as possible. This means each bearing is "under" its, (high or low), gear.
The selector shaft detents for 1/2 and 3/4 were reground to ensure full mesh when the a gear is selected.

The clutch fork got a new swivel bush





And was refitted to the gearbox, and the only metric bolt on the gearbox tightened





It was planned to put the gearbox back in its place, but the new mounts had metric threads on it, and surprisingly I had no M10 nyloc nuts. Also, I bumped my head on the forklift, causing me to rapidly lose interest in digging around for said M10 nuts

But tomorrow's another day!

Cheers,

If you're looking for a great classic car painter, Patrick at Autocraft in Booragoon. He has a super nice E Type Jag he restored and painted himself.

By the way Tim, I love the build! I also have a little bit of workshop envy.

Back to it today, got the gearbox all read to mount in the chassis, till I realised I hadn't prepared the mounts that bolt to the chassis





So, bit of sand blasting, then fresh paint on the mounts...... In the mean time, both the diffs were leaking out of the drain plugs, so I decided the time to make a tool to for the plugs was well over due.

Cut and shaped a bit of 6mm (1/4") steel to make the tongue of the tool





Make sure it fits





Cut, (well, grind), a slot in an old wheel nut, this way I can use the wheel brace to tighten the drain plugs.





And gently weld in place





I managed to get just over a turn out of the front diff plug, and 3/4 of a turn on the rear, so fingers crossed the leaking stops!

Gearbox mounts are dry, so the box can go back in! (The piece of wire on the passenger side is just to hold the box in postition).





And prop shafts in





The rear prop has the most confidence inspiring sticker on it





No such sticker was on the front one......

Cheers,

I,m away from home, so have no manuals with me, but isn;t the front prop shaft supposed to have the slip joint at the gearbox end to give a bit more protection from the elements (military ones have to have it the other way to clear the cross member, with the lifted suspension).

Correct me if I'm wrong.

John

Couple of drops of Locktite Hydraulic Sealer will stop oil leaking through the threads on the drain plugs but it will not make the plug hard to remove..
And with booth prop shafts on the S1s the sliding joints go th the gear box end.

Originally Posted by debruiser

is that 2" of lift with standard shackles or with military/1 ton shackles?

Sorry for the delay in reply, the parabolic so I have I believe are standard shackles not military. It's only a tray back so no great weight on the springs. Mind you I can jump I the tray and there is very little movement.

So, propshaft directions.... Looks like I got a bit ahead of myself, I'll have to check in the book which way they go. (The book is at the engine machinist at the moment, so that will have to wait).

When I pulled the car apart the front had the slip at the diff end, and the rear had the slip at the transfer end....





Happy to hear anyones input on which way is the right way

Cheers,

My 109 Ser3 has them how your pic is,BUT,I too have had them on and off the vehicle!!!!
Andrew